92 ANTI-AGEING
that protect against free radical damage caused by exposure to UV light, reducing the risk of premature ageing. Most natural polyphenols can absorb
UV radiation. Therefore, when applied topically, they can prevent penetration of the radiation into the skin. The main polyphenolic compounds in tara pods are gallic acid, epicatechin, catechin, apigenin, and quercetin. Caesalpinia spinosa has been studied by Cobiosa and is an example of sustainability and versatility being a sustainable source of bioactive compounds for innovative and versatile cosmetic ingredients such as Cobioage. Cobioage increases collagen production and favours the arrangement of elastin filaments.
Anti-wrinkle and firming effect Stimulation of elastin synthesis The formation of wrinkles is due to an imbalance between the degradation of existing proteins and their synthesis by fibroblasts. To evaluate elastin expression levels, human fibroblasts were incubated with 0.1% Cobioage for 16 hours and the arrangement and signal intensity of the labelled protein were evaluated by immunofluorescence. 0.1% Cobioage showed a stabilizing effect of elastin fibres (observed by a more distributed signal through the cellular cytoplasm). Stimulation of elastin synthesis can be
observed because the signal is more intense and larger compared to control. The results are shown in Figure 2.
Stimulation of collagen synthesis In the case of collagen, its synthesis was also evaluated by fibroblasts, obtaining positive results. Fibroblasts treated with 0.1% Cobioage show a more intense and larger signal than control (Figure 3).
In vivo anti-ageing and redensifying efficacy Study protocol 22 women, 50% 40-60 years old and 50% more than 60 years old were selected for the study.
Application, twice a day for 56 days, of
a 3% Cobioage emulsion in one hemiface vs placebo emulsion in the other. The anti-ageing efficacy was assessed: (1) objectively and quantitatively instrumental
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0
3% Cobioage ■ Placebo■ +16%
A B
Figure 2: 0.1% Cobioage showed a stabilizing effect of elastin fibres (observed by a more distributed signal through the cellular cytoplasm). Stimulation of elastin synthesis can be observed because the signal is more intense and larger compared to control
A B
Figure 3: 0.1% Cobioage showed to stimulate the collagen synthesis, which can be observed because the signal is more intense and larger compared to control
measurements of the skin firmness and elasticity were taken with a Cutometer; (2) objectively and quantitatively by instrumental measurements of the skin thickness Sub Epidermal Low echogenic band and density by ultrasonography (Dermascan C system).
Assessment of the skin firmness and elasticity Skin biomechanical evaluation was performed by a Cutometer dual MPA 580. This system is used to measure the elasticity of the upper skin layers using negative pressure which deforms the skin mechanically. The measuring principle is based on the suction method. Negative pressure is created in the device
(450 mbar) and the skin is drawn into the aperture of the probe (2 secs) and after a defined time-released again (2 secs). Inside the probe, the penetration depth is
3% Cobioage ■ Placebo■
5 4 3 2 1
0
Figure 4: Percentage of firmness change during the study. After 56 days, Cobioage induced a 16% improvement in skin firmness
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
Figure 5: Percentage of elasticity change during the study. After 56 days, Cobioage induced a 4% improvement in skin elasticity
+4%
determined by an optical measuring system which consists of a light source and a light receptor, as well as two prisms facing each other, which project the light from transmitter to receptor. The light intensity changes due to the penetration depth of the skin. The resistance of the skin to the negative
pressure (firmness) and its ability to return to its original position (elasticity) are displayed as curves (penetration depth in mm/time) in real-time during the measurement. This measurement principle allows getting information about the elastic and mechanical properties of the skin surface. The measuring area was the face (hemiface
active versus hemiface placebo). The results can be seen in Figures 4 and 5.
Assessment of the skin thickness and density Skin ageing includes intrinsic ageing, mainly influenced by genetic, environmental, and hormonal factors, and photoageing, defined as the addition of chronic ultraviolet (UV)- induced damage to intrinsic ageing, which accounts for most age-associated skin changes. Alterations of connective tissue
components, namely reduction of fibroblasts, collagen, and elastic fibres, are responsible for many of the morphologic and mechanical changes that result in skin wrinkling, sagging, loss of elasticity, and dryness. Some authors have recently proposed
the term ‘dermatophytosis’ to include all the aspects of aged skin, in which an important role is played by decreased hyaluronate content and expression of the major cell
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