HAIR CARE
Sustainable alternative to viscous silicones
Anna Momméja - Seppic
Dimethiconol, also referred to as silicone gum, is a polymer quite similar to dimethicone (but with hydroxyl group). Dimethiconol-based blends are widely used in hair care products to improve the appearance & texture of the hair. They have film forming properties, provide a rich sensoriality and a large variety of benefits to the hair, such as thermal protection or curl definition. However, environmental concerns and sustainability expectations of consumers have been growing a lot these past few years and have led to a technical challenge: how to replace these blends with 100% natural solutions, a better biodegradability and keep the same performance? Recently, the Seppic innovation team
developed a new emollient based on polyfarnesene. Combined with bio-based C15- 19 alkane to allow hydrogenation, it creates a new and innovative molecule, highly viscous, with very interesting properties to replace dimethiconol-based blends: hydrogenated polyfarnesene. 100% natural, this new emollient, C15-19 Alkane - Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene, creates the ideal sustainable alternative to viscous silicones. Figure 1 shows the comparison of physical
properties of C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene with C15-19 alkanes, dimethicone and dimethicone/dimethiconol blend (DMD). Its viscosity lies between dimethicone and DMD whereas its density is lower. Its refractive index is slightly higher, reflecting its higher brightness.
Filmogen properties The first step to investigate the performance of the product was to understand its mechanism
C15-19 alkanes* (*Plant-based & Renewable)
Viscosity 25°C (mPa.s) Viscosity 40°C (mPa.s) Density Refractive index 4.5 2.6 0.775 1.433
of action. An observation by SEM-FEG (Scanning Electron Microscopy - Field Emission Gun) at x500 and x1500 magnifying was realized to identify whether the product has filmogenic properties like dimethiconol blends. DMD was chosen to be the benchmark.
Both products were applied as a pure raw material on damaged Caucasian hair tresses, from the root to the tip of the hair. Three tresses were used for each assay. The observation was done at room temperature, at 50% of relative humidity and 20 minutes after application of raw material. In Figure 2, the three conditions can be
observed. On the non-treated hair, the scales are visible. On the tress treated with DMD, the scales are almost not visible anymore and a smooth homogeneous covering film can be observed.
C15-19 alkanes* & hydrogenated polyfarnesene*
(*Plant-based & renewable) 750 400 0.828 1.454 350 1,000 – 0.967 1.404
2,000 6,000
– 0.930 1.39
Figure 1: Comparison of physical properties of C15-19 alkanes, C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene, dimethicone and dimethicone/dimethiconol blend
www.personalcaremagazine.com Dimethicone
Dimethicone/ dimethiconol
ABSTRACT
Sustainability in the beauty and personal care market has been rising for many years and has become unavoidable in hair care as well. One of the big challenges is the replacement of silicones by more environmentally- friendly products offering the same level of performance. Seppic has recently launched Emogreen™ HP 40 (INCI: C15-19 Alkane - Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene), a sustainable alternative to viscous silicones. Several studies investigated the performance of this new generation emollient versus dimethiconol blends.
On the tresses treated with C15-19 alkanes/
hydrogenated polyfarnesene, a similar result was observed where scales are not visible anymore and a smooth film covers the hair fibre. This observation suggested protective as well as sensory properties leading to further investigation.
Thermal protective effect The thermal protective effect was then tested on healthy Caucasian hair exposed to a thermal treatment of 50 runs at 210°C. The product C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene was compared again versus DMD. Both products were tested purely on the hair tresses. The measured parameter was the integrity
of the inner structure of the hair keratin through polarimetric imaging method. The optical device measures the k-index before & after thermal treatment which can be visualized on pictures of hair cross sections. A high k-index is represented in red and
illustrates a healthy keratin whereas purple represents a low k-index and a very damaged keratin. In Figure 3, the full colour scale and the results can be observed. The non-treated hair exposed to thermal stress has a lower k-index and we can clearly see the induced damages.
When the hair is exposed to thermal stress
and was treated, either with DMD or C15-19 alkanes/hydrogenated polyfarnesene, the k-index is higher and a significant gain of +38% thermal protective effect against heat damages is observed versus non-treated hair. There are no significant differences between both treatments,
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
63
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