36 MARINE INGREDIENTS
TABLE 1: WELL-AGEING CREAM WITH OSMOCEAN PSK Phase Ingredients A Water
INCI Aqua
Propylene glycol Glycerin
Vitamin B3 Xantan gum Guar gum
B Sunflower oil
Glyceryl stearate Vitamin E
Oramix G110
C Osmocean PSK D Pentano-1,2-diol
3-(2-ethylhexloxy) propane-1,2-diol
E Parfum
Propylene glycol Glycerin
Niacinamide Xantam gum Guar gum
Helianthus annuus seed oil Glyceryl stearate Tocopherol
Caprylyl capryl glucoside
Aqua, Populus termuloides bark extract, Plankton extract
Pentylene glycol Ethylhexylglycerin Parfum
w/w (%) q.s 100 10.0 3.00 2.00 0.20 0.20 29.0 5.10 1.00 0.90
3.00 0.85
0.15 0.20
Procedure: Solubilise Vitamin B3 in a few millilitres of water. Mix xanthan gum with glycerin and add it to the rest of the water under gentle stirring and heating at 45-50°C for 25-30 minutes. Add guar gum to the previous mixture while continuing to stir and heat. Finally add pentylene glycol to complete phase A, heating to 75ºC until perfectly homogenised. Stir until a homogeneous mixture phase B (leave tocopherol to the end) at 75°C. Disperse phase B in phase A and emulsify using homogeniser. Cool to room temperature, stirring constantly. Add the tocopherol, phase C, D and E to the previous mix phase A-B and emulsify until a homogeneous final mixture for 20 minutes with 3500 rpm
Osmocean PSK has biomechanical
repair properties that show visible wrinkle improvement and improved skin uniformity. The length and area of wrinkles around the eyes and facial expression lines (Figure 6) were reduced by -5.5% and -2.8% respectively after 28 days of Osmocean PSK use. Volunteers using the placebo did not show
a reduction in wrinkles, but an increase of 3.1% and 3.9% respectively. Visual evidence confirm the wrinkle reduction effect on the eye contour (Figure 7) and facial expression lines (Figure 8).
Formulation examples The extraction process uses unique green chemistry principles and do not involve the use of environmental harmful chemicals. Thus, Osmocean PSK are non-sensitising, non- dermal and ocular irritating. This ingredient is over 100% natural origin content (ISO 16128). It is expected to achieve COSMOS-certified, Vegan shield and microbiota-friendly. The main applications should be in
dermocosmetics night and daily creams and serums and eye contour creams. The well-ageing action of Osmocean PSK will help to create an extraordinarily effective, natural and original end product with some marketing claims, such as: ■ Moisture protection: repair of dry skin. ■ Lifting effect: reinforcing the evenness of the complexion. ■ Anti-wrinkle effect: repairing the eye contour and expression lines of the face. As the examples in Tables 1 and 2 show,
the formulation well-ageing cream and eye contour repair cream.
Conclusion Amino acids, saccharides and polyols were identified as a main organic osmolytes in aqueous extract of the biomass of epilithic holobiont. These molecules are well-know recognized to play an essential role in skin osmoregulation strategies.
PERSONAL CARE September 2022 D Verstatil SL
TABLE 2: EYE CONTOUR CREAM WITH OSMOCEAN PSK Phase Ingredients A Water
INCI Aqua
Camomila extract Glycerin
Vitamin B3 Vitamin C
B
Hyaluronic acid Xantan gum Argan seed oil Jojoba seed oil Sucrose stearate Vitamina E
C Osmocean PSK
Chamomilla recutita flower extract Glycerin
Niacinamide
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Hydrolized sodium hyaluronate Xantan gum
Argania spinosa seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil Sucrose stearate Tocopherol
Aqua, Populus tremuloides bark extract, Plankton extract
Aqua, sodium levulinate, potassium sorbate
w/w (%) q.s 100 10.0 4.00 2.00 2.00 0.30 0.20 5.00 3.00 2.00 1.00
3.00 1.00
Procedure: Stir until a homogeneous mixture phase A. Stirring and heating until a homogeneous mixture phase B. Disperse phase B in phase A and emulsify using homogenizer until a homogeneous mixture for 20 min. Cool to room temperature, stirring constantly. Add phase C at room temperature. Add phase D to phase A, B and C and emulsify until a homogeneous mixture for 25 minutes with 3400 rpm
The active ingredient Osmocean PSK has
a moisturising effect improving firmness and uniformity complexion of the skin and better well-ageing effect. It repairs biomechanical properties (elasticity) showing a visible improvement of wrinkles and better skin’s uniformity.
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4. Foster ART. The osmolyte strategy of ageing skin. Ph.D. Thesis. Centre of Dermatology Research, Division of Musculoskeletal and Dermatological Sciences, School of Biological Sciences. 2019. 220pp
5. Hara-Chikuma M, Verkman AS. Aquaporin-3 facilitates epidermal cell migration and proliferation during wound healing. Journal of Molecular Medicine. 2008; 86(2), pp. 221–231. doi: 10.1007/s00109-007-0272-4
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