72 CLEAN BEAUTY To demonstrate this important functionality
in a simple test, pure castor oil was applied on a forearm and the amount of oil was quantified using a Sebumeter (Courage & Khazaka). Equal amounts of hectorites (Bentone Hydroclay 2000 and 2100) were applied on the forearm next to natural and synthetic competitive clays (upper part of Figure 2) and spread on the castor oil (lower part of Figure 2). After a short drying time, the better oil
absorption capabilities of the hectorites over the competitive materials was obvious: Bentone Hydroclay 2000 and 2100 show a pastier appearance indicating better oil absorption while the competitive materials stay more powdery. The residual percentage of castor oil left on
skin after rubbing off the clays with a dry tissue was quantified with the Sebumeter (Figure 3). Bentone Hydorclay 2000 and 2100 clearly outperformed competitive materials with extremely good oil absorption capabilities. This is particularly important when
approaching cleansing and detoxifying claims, since excess sebum, pollutants and toxins are being absorbed by the clay and washed off from the skin. For the cleansing and detoxifying performance of a clay, the cationic exchange capacity (CEC) poses as a key indicator. The CEC describes the number of cations a
clay can hold, or in other words, its total negative charge. The higher the CEC, the more cations the clay can hold and release again onto the skin. The clay is taking up unwanted components
on the skin’s surface and exchanges them for nourishing minerals like sodium, calcium or magnesium. Elementis’ Bentone Hydroclay products belong to the smectite group of clays known to have the highest CEC values among the clays.
The methylene blue method was used to
determine the CEC values of Bentone Hydroclay 2000 and 2100, the different hectorite grades and competitive materials (Figure 4). Compared to competitive synthetic and natural sodium magnesium silicates, Bentone Hydroclay 2000 and 2100 showed significantly higher CEC values, with more than 55% higher CEC in its peak. To prove the cleansing efficiency of hectorite,
a wash experiment was conducted using a simple cleansing cream formulation with 3% of Bentone Hydroclay 2100 and 3% of competitive clay materials. A blend of artificial sebum and black pigments applied on a forearm was washed off under running tap water using a clay cleansing cream. The residual pollution on skin was visualised
using VisioFace RD (Courage & Khazaka) (Figure 5). Bentone Hydroclay 2100 enables deep yet mild purification of polluted skin with a consumer perceivable advantage over competitive products.
Stick around for multi-purpose sticks Multi balm sticks have grown extremely popular in Korea since 2021. A multi-use product bringing both hygiene and convenience to a busy modern life is becoming increasingly attractive now in Korea. Beauty sticks made for multi-purpose use by combining the functions of cream, serum, makeup and even facial mask
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
Figure 2: Oil absorption on skin with different clays
120 100 75 50 25 0
100 42.6 5.8 Castor Oil Sodium
Magnesium Silicate
BH2100 5.0 BH2000
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Figure 3: Residual oil left on skin after absorption with different clays
140.00 120.00 100.00 80.00 60.00 40.00 20.00 0.00
BH2000 BH2100
40.9 9.91 Kaolin
Sodium
Magnesium Silicate 1
have quickly become another K-beauty trend this year. However, formulating stick products are
far more challenging than creams and serums. Stability, firmness and pay-off are those common key attributes that are usually linked to lipsticks, now need to be re-evaluated for whole facial applications.
Sodium
Magnesium Silicate 2
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Figure 4: CEC (in milliequivalents of cations/100 g soil) of different clay materials The oil components within a stick
formulation function as a solvent for the waxes and a carrier for the pigments. Poor wax solvency creates a coarse, non- homogenous structure, leading to fine oil droplets on the surface of the stick during small temperature fluctuations or product storage.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
CEC (meq/100g)
% castor oil left on skin
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