INTERVIEW
43
Croda's headquarters at Cowick Hall, Yorkshire, UK
TP: Where is the cutting edge of personal care innovation other than synthetics? DS: We are always looking to expand our sustainable ingredient offering as innovation and sustainability are part of who we are. One area we are looking to explore further is biotechnology as a more progressive and sustainable route to creating ingredients for personal care. An example of this is our
investment in sophorolipids as an alternative to traditional, synthetic surfactants. We currently have pilot trials ongoing in the UK, using various yeasts as the feedstock and look forward to commercialising this project in the near future, after lots of hard work.
TP: What trends are you seeing in the market? DS: We are observing customers increasingly looking to move away from certain ingredients like sulphates. The Generation Z population
wants to connect with brands that share their own beliefs and values. They also look for information on ingredients to understand where and how they have been sourced.
TP: Any other trends? DS: We are excited about two areas of personal care in particular: hair care and solar/sun care. We are scaling up our investment in R&D and developing our teams in those two areas. We are excited about the opportunities in both these markets in countries such as Brazil and India.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
“We will be focusing on the more premium end of the market, meaning skin and hair care that
have a much higher retail value” Dave Shannon - Consumer Care President at Croda
Historically, Brazil has been
a market where lower-cost ingredients have been used, with more premium technologies being sold mainly in developed markets. These technologies are now finding their way into lower cost markets in South America, such as Brazil.
TP: And for sun care? DS: The big trend is for skin care products to include SPF protection, whether it is makeup or more premium daily facial products. This is a big area of focus for us in terms of developing our solar care business and getting our titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and our dispersions into as many skincare products as we can, to offer better sun protection in the daily wear market area.
TP: What do you make of the current debate regarding organics and inorganics in sun care formulations? DS: There is a lot of negative regulatory information being released concerning organics in sun care formulations, particularly around environmental safety. As a result, we are seeing
a trend where customers are moving away from organics and more towards inorganics. Longer term, we will be looking at more sustainable ways of sun protection such as green UV absorbers. There are so many myths
surrounding sunscreens and UV filters, it can be hard to separate fact from fiction. And while the majority of myths are spread by social media, we are also seeing some common misconceptions
spread within our industry. We are actively trying to support the spread of accurate ingredient information, debunking myths, through our mythbuster articles on the Croda personal care blog.
TP: Green UV absorbers…instead of titanium? What would the ingredient be that would replace it? DS: This is something for the future but in the short term we are focused on maximising broad UVA and UVB protection with optimised aesthetics to enhance the customer experience.
TP: As head of personal care at Croda, what keeps you up at night? DS: We are aware of changing regulations within the industry. For example, in terms of sun care, current regulations are to our advantage, but we need to ensure that we are ahead of the game and on the right side of any regulation change. The biggest challenge is
getting consumer buy-in, which is why we work closely with our customers on this topic.
Shape and Play Cleansing Sand
TP: What about the cost of living crisis? DS: It will be interesting to see how the economic environment plays out over the next couple of years and if recession is going to hit, how this will impact the personal care industry. Normally we would say that personal care is recession-resistant, if not recession-proof.
PC September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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