30 SKIN MICROBIOME
Figure 7: (left) A benchmark for sustainable, wood-based xylitol. Process flow diagram representing IFF’s wood-based integration concept and (right) Process flow diagram representing a typical biomass hydrolysis process (BHP)
In practical terms, the use of xylitol for this purpose is limited to water free and powder applications. In the solid cosmetics category, for example, it can be used to deliver moisturising, cleansing and exfoliation benefits in products such as facial cleansers, shampoos and body scrubs. Given that this material is completely
dissolved by water, it also offers an effective alternative to microplastics which continue to be phased out and replaced with natural materials by many companies across the personal care sector. Plus, using xylitol in non-liquid applications potentially removes the need for any form of plastic product packaging.
Strong sustainability Upcycled ingredients have been tipped as one of the major global beauty trends to watch,14 and demand is expected to soar in response to growing consumer demand for eco-conscious products.15
because the xylose in the feedstock is already in a hydrolysed form. Once the xylose is extracted, the remaining
side stream - with reduced xylose content and energy value - is returned to the pulp and paper plant for energy production. This comparatively streamlined process
not only supports a commitment to circular beauty, it also minimises the use of energy and chemicals compared to conventional xylitol. This results in clear and measurable benefits in terms of key performance parameters; significantly reducing greenhouse gas emissions, blue water consumption and land use.
In many ways, xylitol is ahead of this
trending curve, with all commercially available sources already derived from different upcycled streams. Indeed, one of the main types of upcycled
xylitol comes from the waste stream of paper production, predominantly beech wood. The extraction and processing technique is designed to minimise waste and environmental impact and - unlike conventional xylitol derived from biomass - does not require the use of harsh chemicals such as sulphuric acid. It is imperative to evaluate the
environmental impact and certainly a vital consideration for the development of the IFF’s xylitol. Extracted via catalytic hydrogenation without the use of any solvents, this bioactive is produced according to IFF’s unique wood based circular economy concept (Figure 7). This involves integrating xylose production with a pulp and paper plant to take advantage of the high carbohydrate content of the side steam and use it as feedstock. Importantly, this removes the need to use acid for hydrolysis
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
Future focus As a natural active with proven benefits for skin health, xylitol has much to offer. But in many ways, it has yet to reach its full potential in skin care applications. That now looks set to change. IFF has taken an important step forward with the launch of Genencare XL to the beauty and personal care industry. This upcycled, highly purified xylitol is supported by robust research that demonstrates its hydrating and microbiome-balancing properties, as well as its compelling sustainability story. With additional proven cooling
characteristics, it offers both active and functional benefits; a powerful combination for formulators tasked with optimising products to meet increasingly complex consumer expectations.
References 1. Consumer data (Jan 2012 – Dec 2021). Beauty and Personal Care. Mintel GNPD
2. Consumer data (Jan 2012 – Dec 2021). Beauty and Personal Care. Mintel GNPD
3. Verdier-Sévrain S, Bonté F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2007 Jun;6(2):75-82. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x. PMID: 17524122
4. Blank IH. Factors which influence the water
content of the stratum corneum. J. Invest. Dermatol. 1952 Jun;18(6):433-40. doi: 10.1038/jid.1952.52. PMID: 14938659
5. Byrd A, Belkaid Y, Segre J. The human skin microbiome. Nat. Rev. Microbiol. 16, 143–155 (2018).
https://doi.org/10.1038/ nrmicro.2017.157
6. Xylitol in Personal Care and Cosmetics Market Size, Share & Trends Analysis Report by Application, 2018, Grand View Research
7. Nayak PA, Nayak UA, Khandelwal V. The effect of xylitol on dental caries and oral flora. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dent. 2014;6:89-94. Published 2014 Nov 10. doi:10.2147/CCIDE. S55761
8. Umino Y, Ipponjima S, Denda M. Modulation of lipid fluidity likely contributes to the fructose/xylitol-induced acceleration of epidermal permeability barrier recovery. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 2019, 311, 317–324. doi: 10.1007/s00403-019-01905-0. Epub 2019 Mar 7. PMID: 30847563
9. GENENCARE® XL technical presentation 10. Saral D. 2018. The Microbiome: translating capabilities from food to personal care. Kisaco Skin Microbiome West Coast Conference, San Francisco
11. Berg G, Rybakova D, Fischer D et al. Microbiome definition re-visited: old concepts and new challenges. Microbiome 8, 103 (2020).
https://doi.org/10.1186/s40168- 020-00875-0
PC
12. Brown MM, Horswill AR. Staphylococcus epidermidis—Skin friend or foe? PLoS Pathog 16(11): e1009026. 2020. https://doi. org/10.1371/journal.ppat.1009026
13. Chemical and Functional Properties of Food Saccharides. (2003). United Kingdom: CRC Press
14. Amanda Lim, 15 Dec 2021, 15 Global beauty trends 2022: Key cosmetic insights from CosmeticsDesign editors, Cosmetics Design Europe
15. Kacey Culliney, 23 Dec 2021, ‘Talking trash’: Upcycled ingredients to soar in 2022 across EMEA, Cosmetics Design Europe
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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