SKIN MICROBIOME Its added value is that upcycled biologically
active solvents rich in fruit oligo-elements are involved in the production reaction. As a result, it performs an overall beneficial effect on skin ecosystem, decreasing the cellular senescence by promoting a high cellular vitality and responsiveness. The ingredient prevents the signs of skin
fatigue thanks to a promotion of a youthful complexion by improving skin elasticity, by reducing the fatigue effect, by increasing firmness, moisturisation and radiance (Figure 3). Further evaluations confirmed that it also helps in maintaining the physiological balance in skin microbiota composition.
Full-spectrum hyaluronans Full-spectrum hyaluronans from HA Tech 2.0® technology are biotechnological ingredients that reproduce a specific spectrum of efficacy, with a targeted focus on skins at a particular physiological step (homeostasis or stress). They have been designed starting from the assumption that there is a coexistence of multiple molecular weight in human skin, leading to specific biological mechanisms. The attention became therefore more focused on the ingredient activity, more than its molecular weight. Roelmi HPC confirmed these observations with the development of distinct hyaluronan ingredients belonging to PrincipHYAL® Line: ■ PrincipHYAL Signal-10: quicker permeation than classic form of hyaluronans for an immediate effect of moisturisation and elasticity. Very useful for the concept of TURBO cosmetics. ■ PrincipHYAL Aurora: a proved regenerating and wound-healing effect for a completely new skin. ■ PrincipHYAL Difference: a wide spectrum of molecular weight studied to get long-term anti- aging on mature skins. ■ PrincipHYAL Cube3: a wide spectrum of molecular weight studied to get short-term lifting effect - just 30 minutes - with a proved efficacy of carrier for both lipo- and water- soluble ingredients.
Conclusion The microbiota has always been there, even before we realised that it existed. The interaction with cosmetics has always been there too, but was also unknown. It is so important now that cosmetics take it into account during product design process. The safety of the product for the skin,
expanded to safety for the microbiota in terms of interaction and knowledge of the effects that the formula can bring, means that products can be even more effective, and safe, generating new targets for the cosmetics of the future.
References 1. Sfriso R, Egert M, Gempeler M, Voegeli R, Campiche R. Revealing the secret life of skin - with the microbiome you never walk alone. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2019
2. Pellegrino M. Cosmetic Preservatives and Skin Microbiota, what’s new? HPC Today; vol. 15(6) 2020
www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
4% 2% 0%
-2% -4% -6% -8%
T14 Experimental time (days)
Figure 3: In vivo study - placebo-controlled study carried out on 24 female subjects aged over 18 years old, -28 days to quantify skin elasticity (R9 anti-fatigue effect) after 14 and 28 days of product usage. Material: Cutometer® MPA 580, Courage+Khazaka, electronic GmbH). Data is reported as % variation vs. T0
T28 Placebo ■ 1% ener-GY plus ■
41
PC
% variation vs T0
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