78 SUSTAINABILITY
■ With RE-AMO 919 + Schreibweise RE ■ With AMO 918 ■ Without AMO 918
8000 Appearance 7000
Coourless to yellowish liquid
Yellowish liquid
TABLE 1: CHT-BEAUSIL RE-AMO 919 EM AND CHT-BEAUSIL AMO 918 PHYSICAL PROPERTIES CHT-BeauSil RE-A-MO 919 EM
CHT-BeauSil AMO 918
6000 Figure 6: Impact on viscosity
Performance The CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 EM was assessed in different formulations in the application lab to assure key performance. The selection of the formulations covers a wide spectrum of final formulations: transparent shampoo (formulation 1), sulphate-free shampoo (formulation 2), and hair treatment (formulation 3). As measures for the performance
assessment the following are selected. The formulation stability as the most important criteria was under observation for three months at different temperatures (4°C, 20°C and 45°C). Other performance tests like foaming, combing, shine, and softness were evaluated to ensure that there are no noticeable differences. The performance of the CHT-BeauSil
RE-AMO 919 EM was compared in these three formulations to the reference product: CHT-BeauSil AMO 918. The following detailed results are an abstract of the lab evaluation and shows the results in detail of the formulation 2 – sulphate-free shampoo. While manufacturing the shampoo
formulations, there were no differences between the CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 EM and the CHT-BeauSil AMO 918. The most important tests were the measurement of the viscosity and the stability evaluation. By measuring the viscosity with a Brookfield LVT, no difference was detectable (Figure 6). Shampoo foam is another crucial element.
The foam evaluation was done by an internal method of using a measuring cylinder, a 10g/l solution of the shampoos in water with 15° dH
100 95 90 85
Start Figure 7: 10g/l foam level ) PERSONAL CARE September 2022 10s 30s 60s 120s
Viscosity
Non-volatile content D4 D5 D6 content Smell
Stability 12m 20°C Stability 3m 40°C
<10 mPas 27%
<0.1%
Product specific Pass Pass
and 37°C. No negative impact on the foam was notable (Figure 7). The combing assessment was evaluated
after a detailed procedure applied on damaged hair tresses, Indian quality. The measurements were carried out with a Dia-Stron MTT175 device. The combing force could be reduced with the CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 EM by -40% on the wet hair and by -44% on the dry hair. The reference product CHT-BeauSil AMO 918 has shown a similar result (Figure 8). The gloss level after the application was with both formulation equal and improved it by +11%. A Courage + Khazaka unit was used to evaluate the gloss before and after treatment with the shampoo.
Conclusion The CHT-BeauSil RE-AMO 919 EM is the the start for a new generation of silicone polymers to have a contribution to the sustainability targets of companies, economies, and UN-goals for this polymer class in personal care. CHT was able to create and develop a
process to use monomers made from silicone waste to bring them back into a high-quality polymer for the use in personal care and fulfilling the latest standards of low-cyclic content. The process guarantees formulators that there is no impact on the performance and an existing formulation can be switched to the new generation of silicone. For the next step, our silicone experts are
■ Without Silicone ■ with RE-AMO 919 ■ with AMO 918 ■ Wet ■ Dry
60 40 20 0
RE-AM0 919 AMO 919 Figure 8: Improvement of combing versus without silicone
www.personalcaremagazine.com
<10 mPas 25%
<0.1%
Product specific Pass Pass
already working on further products based on such technology for the use in personal care products.
References 1. Ebel, A. TUBINGAL RISE - silicone softener made of recycled and renewable raw materials, CHT
https://www.cht. com/cht/medien.nsf/gfx/med_MJOS- BURDZB_38118F/$file/CHT-TUBINGAL- RISE-softener-recycled-silicones-EN-ES. pdf
2. United Nations, Sustainable Development Goals communications materials https://
www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/ news/communications-material/
3. Silikon Recycling, Recycelt Silikon Produkte und Teilen,
http://www.siliconerecycling. com/de/
4. Institute of Personal Care Science Australia, Silicones in skincare and haircare, https://
www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7WpLBneps4
5. CES - Silicones Europe, Silicon - Chemistry Carbon Balance - An assessment of Greenhouse Gas Emissions and Reductions
6. Unicef, Weltwassertag 2021: 10 Fakten über Wasser
7. CES - Silicones Europe, Silicones Industry,
https://www.silicones.eu/silicones/industry/
8. Institute of Personal Care Science Australia, Degradability of Silicones, https://www.
youtube.com/watch?v=Z_1cXdIT0VE
PC
Foam volume in ml
Viscosity at 20°C, 20rpm
Improvement in %
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