CLEAN BEAUTY
Catering to skincare needs with hectorite clay
Hua Ying, Silke-Valentin Burzynski - Elementis
Hectorite clay, named after the originating area in a location near Hector, California, is an exceptionally pure, non-toxic, non- bioaccumulating, three-layer clay of the smectite family. It is sourced from the world’s purest hectorite mine, near Newberry Springs, California. The hectorite clay was created from volcanic
ash by hydrothermal means. The salt beds found in this area in combination with hot springs yielded a unique clay mineral structure that is different to other smectite clays. The extremely efficient swelling capability
and network stability of hectorite is due to the uniform charge density distribution, as the clay was built from a quick volcanic eruption. Bentonite, on the other hand, is built from a longer-lasting weathering process with less uniform charge density distribution. The hectorite clay ore is selectively mined using open-pit mining operations, and the wet processing removes impurities to create different grades of hectorite clay. The platelets are remarkably uniform with respect to elemental composition, charge density distribution and charge location. The hydrothermal conditions created
platelets with a thin shape, which results in a favourable edge-to-face surface ratio. Pure hectorite clay is a 100% natural ingredient according to ISO 16128 and complies with the COSMOS standard. A small quaternary treatment allows
hectorite to bring multiple benefits to the oil phase of a formulation while remaining up to 99% naturally derived according to the ISO 16128 standard.
From clean beauty to clean skin Elementis’ hectorite clays are unique natural clay minerals. They provide significant benefits for the rheology control, stabilisation, texture and sensorial effects of formulations targeting sensitive skincare products. Compared to carbomer, hectorite is not only 100% natural origin, but also non-toxic to aquatic life and non-bioaccumulating. Among all the clean beauty skincare offers to
consumers with sensitive skin, amino acid facial cleansers that remove impurities effectively, leave the skin refreshed and hydrated but not over-stripped gained more popularity due to their gentle image. That said, formulation of a good quality facial cleanser with amino acid surfactants remains challenging to many brands.
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Figure 1: +48°C challenge test results: 40% SG with hectorite vs. no hectorite, 30% SG with hectorite vs. no hectorite
The stability of crystalised amino acid
surfactant systems easily fails in high temperature stability tests, impacting the consumers’ experience. On the other hand, systems thickened with carbomer or xanthan gum usually impart a residual skin feeling after rinse-off, which is deemed unfavourable by consumers. Keeping these formulation challenges in
mind, pure hectorite was used to develop a mild facial cleanser, the Amino Acid Clarifying Foam Cleanser (F-4001-04), which caters to the consumer’s facial care needs. A broad formulation versatility with
multiple unique benefits is offered by hectorite in this application. Above all, hectorite enables high heat stability of crystalised amino acid surfactant systems that decrease the possibility of polyhydric alcohol and water separating from the system. The stability test in Figure 1 shows that
5% hectorite (commercial name Bentone Hydroclay™ 2000) helps the cleanser containing 40% Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate pass the +48°C test over a one-month period. With the presence of hectorite, systems with lower dosage of amino acid surfactants (from industry average 55% to 30%) endure the
temperature challenge successfully, allowing a minimal usage of surfactants for ultimate reduction of sensitisation.
High suspension efficiency and stabilisation Hectorite enables extremely high suspension efficiency and stabilisation properties in combination with an easy application due to its thixotropic flow behaviour. In comparison to other mineral thickeners such as bentonite, it is significantly more efficient in building viscosity of the final product. While the green coloured bentonite has an equidimensional shape, the slight beige, elongated hectorite platelets are better suited to water swelling and provide a smoother, more elegant skin feel. In formulation, this superior water swelling ability leads to usage levels of hectorite clay, which is less than half compared to bentonite, enabling pleasing yet cost- efficient cosmetic products. There is more to hectorite clays than just
their superior rheology modification properties. Hectorite clays also provide excellent oil absorption to a formulation, leaving the skin mattified and flawless – important in times of increased social media activities.
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
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