HAIR CARE
69
Chinese
Virgin brown Caucasian
Bleached Caucasian
Virgin Mongolian (weave)
Caribbean 2C
African 3C
African 4A
African 4C
Figure 3: SEM evaluation of ellipticity, diameter and cuticle packing of different hair types
tresses was utilised to screen and down select formulations, which consumers then tested at home and in lab half-head testing to validate results and benefits. The following key technologies identified that
provided superior benefits to highly textured hair: ■ A quaternised silicone elastomer microemulsion with a unique crosslinked elastomer structure and amino functionality groups provides intense conditioning via ease of combing and styling properties such as curl retention and definition. ■ A combination of high molecular weight silicones and an innovative hydroxyamino functionalised silicone was tested and restored the hair’s hydrophobic state, reducing breakage,and providing ease of styling benefits. ■ A combination of Acrylate polymers provided long-lasting curl retention and definition when formulated into a clear gel format. ■ Alkylmethyl siloxanes provided curl elongation and improved sensory from the butter oil-in-water formulation. These most promising technologies were what made the Textured Hair Kit (Figure 4) - covering a complete hair treatment regime - successful.
Conclusion Through its commitment to diversity and inclusion, Dow enables accurate and impactful
TABLE 1: UNIQUE PHYSIOCHEMICAL AND STRUCTURAL PROPERTIES OF HIGHLY TEXTURED HAIR Phase
Ingredients Ellipiticity (aspect ratio) Average diameter (um)
Cuticles (number of layers and distribution vary)
Ortho and paracortex contexts
Fiber area (m2)* Fibers/mm2 on the scalp Bound water in hair 1.4 70 The circle is 8-11 layers thick
Straight is 100% para-cortex fibres and curly has a thin one-cell-layer Ortho-cortex fibres at thew periphery
˜1.2E-09 High
Sebaceous glands on scalp Many and active N/A
Lipid layer composition
Trace elements (separate from essential functional compsition e.g. amino acids, keratin, melanin)**
Fatty acids>>wax/chol esters >cholesterol
Bleached hair shows trace levels of sodium, copper and nickel and had the lowest levels of calcium
change for consumers. The combined synergy of Dow’s technical people and employee resource groups showcases their deep scientific knowhow by bringing innovative solutions to the underserved textured hair care market.
Major Axis
1.9
Major Axis
AVII 1028 (%)
90 (with considerable variability along shaft)
Variable thickness with 6-10 layers at the end of the major axis, reducing to 1-2 layers at the ends of the minor axis
Approximately equal amounts of the two types of fibres
˜8.00E-09
˜40% of the Caucasian population density Fewer and less active
5% lower than Caucasian Less fatty acids and more esters than Cauca-
sian. ˜30% more "total" lipid than Caucasian (virgin African hair)
Below average levels of sulphur , higher levels of calcium and iron
In close collaboration with the GAAN at Dow,
the team understood consumers’ barriers in the textured hair care industry and connected this market gap with the broader societal issues. GAAN highlighted the need to develop improved products to address critical performance factors such as moisture, frizz control, and shine. The outcome was a set of six unique
formulations designed to provide superior benefits to highly textured hair via in vivo and in vitro technical testing. Through collaboration, Dow helps deliver impactful solutions for consumers and the personal care industry.
References 1. McCormick T. How Brands are Catering for Different Hair Textures. Mintel. 5 January 2021
Figure 4: Dow Textured Hair Care Kit
www.personalcaremagazine.com
2. Harmon S. Black consumers spend nine times more in hair & beauty: Report. Hype Hair Magazine. February 2018. https://www.
hypehair.com/86642/black-consumers- continue-to-spend-nine-times-more-in- beauty-report/
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
PC
Minor
Axis
Minor
Axis
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