SCALP CARE
350 300 250 200 150 100 50 0
Untreated control
Placebo ■ Yeast Ferment Extract at 1%■ (*)
5% 0% -5%
+123%
Yeast Ferment Extract
Statistic: Mean ± SD; n=4 One Way ANOVA Holm-Sidak method (*) p<0.05
Figure 3: Corneodesmosin synthesis by keratinocytes in presence of the Yeast Ferment Extract in vitro
bacteria, yeasts, fungi and viruses. The main species most represented are Malassezia spp, Propionibacterium spp and Staphylococcus spp.6
-10% -15%
(*) / D0 -20% (*) / PI -20% -16%
Statistic: Percentage on 21 volunteers Wilcoxon test or Mann-Whitney test (*) p<0.05
Figure 4: Decrease in the perception of scalp dryness after use of the Yeast Ferment Extract in a shampoo
of commensal scalp bacteria may contribute to scalp conditions.7
prevalent fungus on the scalp. The in vitro and in vivo results demonstrate
the ability of the glycolipid-based Yeast Ferment Extract ingredient to help support a healthy scalp ecosystem balance so the body can effectively improve unwanted scalp8 conditions on its own. Significant improvement in the perceived dryness and healthy appearance of the scalp has been achieved with 2% of the ingredient. The level of efficacy at 2% suggests that some effectiveness could be achieved at lower concentrations with repeated applications. An efficient scalp barrier is key for a healthy The stratum corneum is characterized by
scalp.11
a balance between desquamation or exfoliation and keratinocytes differentiation processes; when these two phenomena are balanced, the stratum corneum forms a protective barrier to maintain hydration of the scalp and protect against external insults. Chronic barrier damage can impair hydration
and lead to atypical epidermal changes, like excessive exfoliation which may underlie some scalp issues. Among proteins involved in skin and
Some studies suggest that an imbalance M. restricta is one of the most
scalp barrier, corneodesmosin has been selected as a target to support barrier function and maintain a proper desquamation of the scalp. Corneodesmosin is a glycoprotein
naturally present in the stratum corneum. It is synthetized by granular keratinocytes. When secreted out of keratinocytes and integrated in corneodesmosome, it strengthens adhesion and cohesion of corneocytes for an efficient barrier function. In addition to that it helps to maintain proper desquamation.12 The Yeast Ferment Extract has shown a good
potential to support a healthy scalp barrier, so the skin can naturally protect against irritation and excessive exfoliation. Dryness is often a visible aspect of underlying imbalance in the scalp microbiota and a weakened barrier function. Backed by the previous in vitro results, we launched a clinical evaluation which showed that the Yeast Ferment Extract formulated at 1% was able to help support the scalp’s natural barrier and decrease the perception of dryness in the scalp.
Conclusion BASF has developed a Yeast Ferment Extract, a unique fermented ingredient made of glycolipids, which supports the scalp’s natural ecosystem balance with a dual action: it helps support the scalp’s natural, healthy microbiota and creates a healthy environment on the scalp in which the skin can create healthy proteins to
support the natural barrier function of the scalp. These dual actions help to give the scalp a
more clean, desirable, and healthy appearance by reducing the perception of dryness after as little as three weeks’ application in a shampoo. These results make this ingredient a natural product that is respectful of the scalp’s environment and that can be easily integrated into the care routine of consumers for a clean, healthy scalp.
References 1. Meloni M, Balzaretti S, Collard N, Desain S, Laperdrix C. Reproducing the scalp microbiota community: co-colonization of a 3D reconstructed human epidermis with C. acnes and M. restricta. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2021, 43, 235–245
2. Leung MHY, Tong X, Bastien P, Guinot F, Tenenhaus A, Appenzeller BMR, Betts RJ, Mezzache S, Li J, Bourokba N, Breton L, Clavaud C, Lee PKH. Changes of the human skin microbiota upon chronic exposure to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon pollutants. Microbiome (2020) 8:100.
3. Mintel, 2020 4. Saxena R, Mittal P, Clavaud C, Dhakan DB, Hegde P, Veeranagaiah MM, Saha S, Souverain L, Roy N, Breton L, Misra N, Sharma VK. Comparison of healthy and dandruff scalp microbiome reveals the role of commensals in scalp health Front Cell Infect Microbiol. 4, 8:346, 2018
5. Xu Z, Wang Z, Yuan C, Liu X, Yang F, Wang T, Wang J, Manabe K, Qin O, Wang X, Zhang Y, Zhang M. Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms. Sci Rep, 12;6: 24877, 2016
6. Chandra SHV, Srinivas R, Dawson TL, Common J.E. Cutaneous Malassezia: Commensal, Pathogen, or Protector? Front. Cell. Infect. Microbiol., 26 January 2021
7. Turner GA, Hoptroff M, Harding CR. Stratum corneum dysfunction in dandruff. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012 Aug; 34(4): 298–306
8. Oji V, Eckl K-M, Aufenvenne K, Nätebus M, Tarinski T, Ackermann K, Seller N, Metze D, Nurnberg G, Fölster-Holst R, Schäfer-Korting M, Hausser I, Traupe H, Hennies HC. Loss of Corneodesmosin Leads to Severe Skin Barrier Defect, Pruritus, and Atopy: Unraveling the Peeling Skin Disease.
www.personalcaremagazine.com September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
61
PC
Stimulation percentage (%)
Improvement vs D0
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
