SCALP CARE
Yeast ferment extract for a healthy scalp
Philip Ludwing & Valerie Andre-Frei – BASF
Ever more consumers are aware that beautiful- looking hair starts with a healthy scalp. Therefore, the trend for skin ingredients in hair care products is growing. A healthy and beautiful scalp is well-hydrated and free of the signs of dryness, or other irritation. A clean scalp will also promote good cell
turnover and promote a healthy environment for optimal hair growth. Just like with skin care, exfoliation of the scalp is important to remove dead skin cells from around the follicle and promote a healthy follicle. Unfortunately, just like the skin, the scalp is
subject to daily stress due to our environment and our hygiene habits. Thus, scalp health and beauty are affected by our surrounding environment. Stress, pollution and over- washing of hair degrades the integrity of the scalp, causing scalp concerns. The scalp microbiota, which is part of normal scalp ecosystem,1
stressors like pollution2 have scalp concerns.5
is also affected by environmental and personal habits.
In 2020, 42% of global consumers stated they These scalp concerns range
from dryness, discomfort, and irritation to more serious issues such as hair loss. Increasingly, consumers are using scalp care
products on a daily basis to protect the health of their scalp and the beauty of their hair. At the forefront are hair and scalp care products that help support the consumer’s scalp ecosystem holistically, protecting the scalp from dehydration and irritation, while caring for its comfort. BASF has applied its expertise to meet
this growing demand for scalp care products. Drawing on the best of nature and the skills of its teams in the science of skin and scalp microbiota, and in collaboration with a Japanese university, BASF has developed BioToLife, a natural ingredient composed of glycolipids and obtained by the fermentation
of rapeseed oil and sugarcane derivatives by a yeast called Starmerella bombicola. Hereafter, BioToLife is referred to its INCI
name, Yeast Ferment Extract. The key benefit of this extract is to support the restoration of a healthy and harmonious scalp. The extract supports the scalp’s natural ability to strengthen the stratum corneum integrity, thereby helping the body to naturally limit scalp dysbiosis. These effects were evaluated in a series of in
vitro tests and in a clinical trial. The ingredient was evaluated versus Malassezia yeast and Staphylococcus aureus bacteria, organisms which can lead to scalp issues when not in a healthy balance. Since the integrity of the skin barrier is key
to maintaining scalp health, the ability of this ingredient to support a healthy barrier function of the scalp was evaluated on a target involved in barrier function and supporting the normalization of desquamation. Finally, the ingredient was tested on volunteers with scalp dryness.
Methods Malassezia restricta (M. restricta) overgrowth in vitro assay The fungus M. restricta was inoculated on Malassezia Leeming & Notman Agar Modified (MLNA) agar plate eight days before the assay and incubated at 31°C for eight days, in order to let the culture grow.
www.personalcaremagazine.com ABSTRACT
Most scalp care solutions on the market contain synthetic anti-dandruff actives known for their anti-microbial activity. However, BASF has harnessed the power of a yeast ferment extract named BioToLife™, created by nature and from nature: rapeseed oil and sugar are fermented by the yeast Starmerella bombicola. By cleaning and exfoliating, the yeast ferment extract supports the scalp’s natural ability to maintain a healthy microbiome and strengthen the skin barrier; therefore, the ingredient significantly reduces scalp dryness in as little as three weeks.
The fungus optical density (OD) at 600nm
was checked and one inoculum was performed in saline solution added with the Yeast Ferment Extract at different concentrations or with positive control (amphotericin B) and incubated at 31°C up to six hours. The fungus inoculum burden was checked by means viable count on MLNA agar plate and resulted to be about 105 colony forming units (CFU)/mL. After six hours, an aliquot from each culture
was taken for viable counting. In this procedure, every sample was diluted down to 103
in saline
solution and 1mL was plated on MLNA agar plate. Each condition was carried out in triplicate (n=3). The plates were then incubated at 31°C for eight days, and final counting was realized. The counting results are expressed as Log10
CFU/mL. CFU/mL is calculated by multiplying the number of colonies by dilution factor. The statistical analysis was carried out using One- way ANOVA analysis for positive control and fermented yeast extract at 0.5%, 1% and 2% versus untreated control.
Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus) in vitro growth assay A colony of S. aureus was inoculated in Tryptic Soy Broth (TBS) diluted and incubated at 37°C for 24h under continuous stirring at 150 rpm. A suspension was then prepared by adjusting the concentration of S. aureus at 0.05 in a fresh TSB medium diluted by half in phosphate buffer saline (PBS) in 96 well plates by measuring the OD at 600nm (OD600nm) with a spectrophotometer. This step allowed standardization of the bacterial concentration.
September 2022 PERSONAL CARE
59
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104
