34 MARINE INGREDIENTS
susceptible to damage, e.g. disrupted barrier function.4 Cellular hydration is fundamental in
physiology cell function as it can play a role in adequate protein folding (native conformation), metabolic function and stress response. Alteration of cell volume lead an unstable form of the protein (non-native conformation) with consequent dysfunction and toxicity through processes such as aggregation, leading to various physiological disorders and diseases.
Moisturising as a first skin care well-ageing Moisturising of the skin is recognized as the first anti-ageing skin care. Skin moisturisation is essential for its appearance, protection, complexion, softness, and the reinforcement of its barrier properties against deleterious and exogenous environmental factors. The intrinsic water binding capacity of skin is not only due to the complex natural moisturising factor present in corneocytes, but also to hyaluronic acid and a regulated water transport within the skin. With sebum, water in the stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in keeping the barrier, the skin’s surface, soft and smooth.14 Dry skin represents a sign of dysfunction of
the outermost layer of the epidermis, i.e. the stratum corneum functioning as the skin barrier. This condition may start at any age due to UVR and other factors but usually becomes apparent with advanced ageing.15 Well-ageing is an ideal natural state of
health, since it allows us to enjoy the passing of the years while maintaining a rejuvenated physical appearance and external beauty. To achieve this state of well-ageing, natural moisturising products would be used to help in normal conditions of balance to the skin (cellular redox homeostasis): a correct cellular hydration and balance between the levels of ROS and detoxification systems.16
Well-ageing bioactive ingredient base-on marine organic osmolytes Inspired by the epilithic holobiont, we biomimic the environmental conditions in which this supra-organism lives. By applying a patented Phycosphere Biodynamic® Technology that includes bioengineering procedures, we manage to induce an increase in the production of organic osmolytes. Amino acids, saccharides and polyols
(Figures 3 and 4) were identified as a main organic osmolytes after distilled water
A
60 40 20 0
*
Day 0■ Day 28 ■ +12.7% **
*
-2% *
B
Osmocean PSK 3%
Placebo *p<0.05, **p<0.005: Kruskall-Wallis test
80 60 40 20 0
0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
Thr Lys Val Ile Leu Phe Ser
Amino acids Arg Gly Asp Glu Ala Pro Tyr
Figure 3: Organic osmolytes like aminoacids from Epylithic holobiont. Valine (Val), Leucine (Leu), Arginine (Arg) Aspartic acid (Asp), Glutamine (Glu), Alanine (Ala) most abundant (above line)
1600000 1400000 1200000 1000000 800000 600000 400000 200000 0
4.00 6.00 2-GALACTOSYL-GLYEROL SUCROSE
MANITOL
GLUCOSE + GALACTONIC ACID
MYO-INOSITOL GLUCOSE 8.00 10.00 12.00 14.00 Time (min) Figure 4: Organic osmolytes saccharides and polyols from Epylithic holobiont
extraction process of biomass of epilithic holobiont. This extract was used to perform Osmocean Phycoskin® (hereafter Osmocean PSK), a novel, natural well-ageing active ingredient base-on organic osmolytes. In vitro studies are underway to confirm
the preliminary hypothesis on the effect of Osmocean PSK with mechanisms to improve natural aged and photoageing skin, due to the contribution of organic osmolytes. However, it is well known that the organic osmolytes found have been described as molecules with beneficial properties for the skin. Glycerol is considered the quintessential
of organic osmolytes. This molecule has been included for many years in topical dermatological preparations due to its diverse actions on the epidermis. It includes improvement of stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier function and skin mechanical
*
Day 0■ Day 28 ■ +16% **
-1.9% *
Osmocean PSK 3%
* Placebo *p<0.05, **p<0.005: Kruskall-Wallis test
Figure 5: In vivo study of Osmocean PSK. Comparative values of moisture (A), elasticity (B) index of volunteers from Day 0 to 28 using active ingredient at 3%, twice a day
PERSONAL CARE September 2022
6 4 2 0
-2 -4 -6
-5.5% Wrinkle length
properties, inhibition of the stratum corneum lipid phase transition, protection against irritating stimuli, enhancement of desmosomal degradation, and acceleration of wound- healing processes.17 Recently, it has been demonstrated
that glycerol fermentation by skin bacteria upregulates the expression levels of genes associated with the skin barrier function.18 Evidence is presented to show that the free radical scavenging properties of mannitol provide it with a two-fold mechanism of action when combined with polysaccharides like hyaluronic acid.19 Osmocean PSK is expected to be launched
in the fourth quarter of 2022 as an original moisturising and dermoprotective bioactive ingredient that reduces the impact of photoageing and restores the skin's natural well-ageing. Its natural organic osmolytes
3.1%
Osmocean PSK 3% ■ Placebo ■ 3.9%
16.00 18.00 20.00 22.00 TREHALOSA
-2.8% Wrinkle area
Figure 6: In vivo study of Osmocean PSK. Comparative values of evolution percentage of wrinkles length and wrinkle area of volunteers using active ingredient at 3%, twice a day
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Moisture value
Elasticity value
Abundance Quantity (gr/100gr)
Evolution %
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