90 FORMULATIONS
Phenoxyethanol - Ethylhexylglycerin Phenylpropanol - Propanediol - Caprylyl glycol - Tocopherol
1.00 0.50
Procedure: Combine Phase A with heat up to 70-75°C. At temperature, add Phase B to Phase A. Mix with heat until homogenized. Heat Phase C to approximately 80°C. Add Phase C to Phase AB and mix well. Homogenize briefly. Begin cool down. Add Phase D at approximately 50°C. Mix well. Add Phase E to Phase ABCD. Mix Well. Continue cool down to approximately 30°C. Properties: pH: 5.9 Viscosities: 1M at RT: 14100 mPa.s M3V6 / Recovery at RT (after 1M at 45°C): 14300 mPa.s M3V6. Stability: 1M at RT, 45°C, cycles -5°C/+40°C.
STEPHENSON
DUROSOFT PG4-0 – SOLID MOISTURISING BAR PHASE INGREDIENTS/ INCI NAME
A Glyceryl Stearate Cocoa Butter Mango Butter
Durosoft PG4-O Glyceryl Oleate Argan Oil
Vitamin E (Tocopherol)
% W/W 41
30.8 16.5 10 1.5 0.1 0.1
Procedure: Combine all ingredients. Heat to 85.c and stir until homogenous. Turn off heat and stir until reach 55.c and then pour into moulds. Let set and unmould.
SURFACHEM
COMPLEXION CONFIDENCE 2 IN 1 COLOUR STICK PHASE INGREDIENTS
INCI NAME
A AlgaPurTM Alage Oil
BRB TMS
Ecoperse Red IO Ecoperse White
Majestic Cranberry MCM-Y06
Martifuse S-1 HSHO Triolein Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Iron Oxides; Octyldodecyl Oleate CI 77891; Octyldodecyl Oleate
Mica; Carmine
Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate; Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Microcrystalline Wax Microcrystalline Wax
Natural Vegan Beeswax Substitute Natural wax blend
Schercemol TISC SchercemolTM Surfac® TEGO®
B Dermofeel®
TocoBalance Dermosoft®
Triisostearyl Citrate
Candelilla SP 13-1
NGDO Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate Candelilla Cera
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Tocopherol; Helianthus Annuus (Sun- flower) Seed Oil
GMCY Seductive Cherry
Glyceryl Caprylate Parfum
SPLR % W/W
1 20.00 2 1.00
1.30
5.00 1.50
1.90 7.00
3 7.00 1 24.60
1 20.00 1
5.00
5 3.50 5 1.00 5 0.20
6 1.00
Procedure: Prepare phase A in the main beaker, Add Schercemol TISC, Algapur, Schercemol NGDO, Matrifuse S-1 Natural Vegan Beeswax Substitute, Tego SP 13-1, Candelilla Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Ecoperse Red IO, Ecoperse White, Majestic Cranberry MCM-Y06 and BRB TMS in order to the beaker. Begin heating to 80°C with slow stirring until everything has melted and homogenous. Let cool gradually phase A with stirring @ 100RPM to between 50-60°C. Keep the mix stirring as indicated in step 2, Add Dermofeel TocoBalance, Dermosoft GMCY and Seductive Cherry flavour in order, ensuring each ingredient is fully incorporated before moving onto the next. Pot immediately while still warm.
Suppliers: 1. Lubrizol 2. BRB 3. Other 4. Surfachem 5. Evonik 6. Givaudan ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ
YOUTHFUL FRESH SERUM PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Demin. water
GLYCERINE – E SymFinity® 1298 Microcare SB
INCI NAME
Aqua (Water) Glycerin
Echinacea Purpurea Extract Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
PROTELAN AGE – C Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Structure XL
B ZETEMOL AL
– RSPO – MB ZETEMOL 2IS ZETEMOL 512 Keltrol CG-SFT
Isostearyl Isostearate Isoamyl Laurate Xanthan Gum
C Galacid Cosmetic 90 Lactic Acid
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Myristyl Lactate
SPLR % W/W 79.15 1.50
1
2 0.10 3 0.80 1
5.50
4 0.75 1 1
1
2.00 6.00
3.00 5 0.60
6 approx 0.60
Procedure: Following the indicated order, mix phase A while stirring until the ingredients are completely dissolved. Mix phase B and add it to phase A, homogenise under vacuum for 5 minutes. Add phase C to the mixture AB and mix for 10 minutes. Properties: Aspect: White, viscous Viscosity: 4000 cPs (BRK S 63, 20 °C, 10 rpm, torque 33%) pH value: 5.0–5.5 (original) Centrifuge: passed (20‘, 3000 rpm) Natural percentage according to ISO 16128: 97.90% Stability: Stable for at least 12 weeks at 45 °C. Stable for at least 12 weeks at 5 °C. Stable for at least 12 weeks at room temperature.
Suppliers: 1. Z&S 2. Symrise 3. Thor GmbH 4. AAK 5. CP Kelco 6. Galactic
TRI-K
INTENSIVE HYDRATION NATURAL REPAIRING SERUM PHASE INGREDIENTS
A Water
BioPure™ GLDA Sodium Alginate
B Glycerin
CELLOSIZE™ Hydroxyethyl Cellulose QP-30000
C Aloe Vera Gel 10:1
Decolorized HyaClear® 7 Zemea®
DL Panthenol-FCC/ USP
CollaPlant Z NPNF®
NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) 20% Solution
D TRIstat PCG 90
INCI NAME Water
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate Sodium Alginate
Glycerin 99.5% USP Hydroxyethylcellulose
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyalu- ronate
Propanediol Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Rice Amino Acids, L-Proline, Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Sodium Hydroxide Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol AT 2-76
SPLR % W/W 71.85
1 0.10 0.10
2 3.00 3 0.40 4 10.00
4 10.00 5 2.00 4 0.40
4 1.00 0.15 4 1.00
Procedure: Add Sodium Alginate to the water and mix until fully hydrated. Premix Phase B and add to the water. Add Phase C ingredients individually and mix. Add NaOH to adjust pH to 5.0 – 5.5. Add Phase D and mix until uniform.
Suppliers: 1. Jarchem Industries, Inc. 2. Protameen Chemicals, Inc. 3. Dow Chemicals 4. TRI-K Industries, Inc. 5. DuPont Tate & Lyle
PERSONAL CARE May 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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