64 SKIN MICROBIOME
Figure 1: Traditional Chinese medicinal ingredients used as fermentation base. Poria cocos (Schw.) Wolf (left), Prunus persica and its resin (right)
ingredients with both medicinal and dietary uses, Poria cocos and Prunus persica resin (Figure 1), as the major components of the fermentation bases. Poria cocos is widely used in Asia as an immunomodulator and anti-inflammatory agent, and it has already been used in the management of various cancers and diabetes.5 The major components of Poria cocos extracts include polysaccharides, terpenes, poria acid, gum, ergosterol, choline, lecithin, amino acids, potassium salts etc. In the cosmetic industry, Poria cocos
extracts has already been applied in a wide of range of soothing, repairing, anti-acne as well as anti-ageing products thanks to their strong anti-inflammatory potential. Prunus persica resin, also know as peach gum, is a natural edible resin component secreted from the bark of peach trees. Its
2
1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2 1
0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0
0 2 4 6 8 10 12 Time (h)
Figure 2: Prebiotic effect of Poris cocos and Prunus persica resin extract on the growth of Lactobacillus. Growth curves of Lactobacillus after addition of Poris cocos and Prunus persica resin extract
PERSONAL CARE May 2024 14 16 18 20 22 24
major components are polysaccharides such as mannose, glucuronic acid, galactose, xylose, arabinose etc. Recent studies have shown that Prunus
persica resin has anti-oxidant, anti-ageing, blood lipid-lowering, blood sugar-lowering, immunity-improving, and anti-cancer effects. Of note, for skin repairing, recent evidence show that Prunus persica resin could repair UVB-induced skin photoageing damage both in vitro and in vivo.6 This approach of using Chinese medicinal
plants as fermentation substrates not only adds new bioactive ingredients to the SpecBio® LF series ingredients, but also positively regulates the growth and biotransformation efficiency of Lactobacillus strains. As shown in Figure 2, the favourable
effect of the combinational Poris cocos and Prunus persica resin extract on probiotic
0% ■ 1% ■ 5% ■ 10% ■ 15% ■
growth is dose-dependent and a 15% of the combinational extract almost doubled the Lactobacillus density within the initial 24 hours (Figure 2). Our data also indicates that this unique
fermentation base not only can promote the probiotic growth but also can limit the proliferation of harmful flora to certain degree as both the SpecBio LF hydrogel and LF filtrate exhibit enhanced antimicrobial activity compared to the market reference products (Table 2). Interestingly, both ingredients could suppress Malassezia furfur, indicating their potential in alleviating dandruff and improving the scalp health.
Impressively enhanced anti-oxidant activity and elevated efficacies The performance of next generation Lactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients has been optimized through continuous testing and refinement of the fermentation conditions. Especially in terms of antioxidant
properties, compared with the market reference samples and Lactobacillus ferment lysate without TCM nutrients, the LF filtrate and hydrogel both showed excellent scavenging capacity for DPPH and superoxide anion free radicals (Figure 3). Compared to counterparts on the market,
the ability to scavenge specific free radicals is surprisingly six-to-eight times higher, indicating that appropriate combination of natural products and probiotic fermentation could effectively eliminate oxidative stress and bring consumers healthier and younger looking skin. Rigorous efficacy tests affirmed that the
LF hydrogel and filtrate both perform well in a number of dimensions including anti- inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-allergic, fibroblast proliferation, collagen biosynthesis, tyrosinase inhibition. For example, Figure 4 showed in the cell
scratch assay, both 0.5 mg/mL hydrogel and filtrate could enhance the relative migration
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