54 TRENDING TECHNOLOGIES A B
Figure 4: A: After negative staining; and B: Before negative staining of AC-EUK-134 SANIO 0.5% with phosphotungstic acid However, most gels undergo phase
Cyclodextrin encapsulation technology Cyclodextrin encapsulation technology is a molecular encapsulation technique that primarily utilizes the structural characteristics of cyclodextrin (particularly β-cyclodextrin) to encapsulate target molecules.6 Cyclodextrin is a cyclic oligosaccharide
compound with a hollow interior structure and an external hydrophilic nature. This structure allows it to selectively bind with hydrophobic core materials in aqueous solutions, forming stable inclusion complexes that can be regarded as microcapsules at the molecular level.
Azelaic acid 60% The hydroxypropyl beta-cyclodextrin inclusion of azelaic acid avoids the drawbacks of azelaic acid during its use in cosmetics. Free azelaic acid has a certain irritating effect on the skin, eyes, mucous membranes, and upper respiratory tract, and its poor water solubility makes it difficult to use. By maintaining the function of azelaic
acid while improving its water solubility and reducing its irritancy, it becomes more suitable for use in skin medications, cosmetics, and care products, greatly expanding the applications of azelaic acid.
Nanogel Nanogel is a type of intramolecular cross- linked polymer gel that exists in the form of nanoparticles (particle size ranging from 1 nm to 1000 nm), with a typical network structure inside. It can disperse into hydrogel particles of nanometer size in aqueous solutions. The gel is an excellent property of topical
formulations, exhibiting various advantages such as skin affinity, non-squeezing on the skin, elasticity, buffering and dispersing pressure, temperature-sensing heat dissipation to maintain a cool feeling, and high viscosity that slows down the flow and evaporation of moisture. Due to its poor fluidity, the gel can stay on the skin surface for a longer period after topical application.7
separation due to changes in various environmental conditions during long-term storage, so emulsifiers are added to minimize this occurrence.7
Salicylic acid nanogel Salicylic acid is difficult to dissolve in water, especially high concentrations of salicylic acid are prone to crystallization, which limits its use and reduces its bioavailability. This leads to decreased stability and poor solubility of salicylic acid products. To address these issues, a preparation method for salicylic acid gel is proposed.8 Salicylic acid nanogel perfectly solves the
problems of solubility and irritation. It softens the corneous layer, promotes the proliferation of epidermal cells, removes old and dead skin cells, and can achieve rapid whitening effects with appropriate use. It also has anti- inflammatory, antibacterial, and acne-fighting properties, cleansing the skin. When added to bathing products, it can
effectively address skin issues such as acne on the back caused by seasonal changes. When added to shampoo products, it can effectively remove dandruff and cleanse excess oil in the hair follicles. After being carrierized by nanogel, the product can exert a sustained- release effect, reducing its irritation and enhancing its long-term effectiveness.9
Challenges and prospects of nanocarrier delivery technology Despite the wide application prospects of nanocarrier delivery technology in the cosmetics industry, it still faces some challenges. For example, the high preparation cost
of nano-carriers may affect product prices and market competitiveness; the safety and biocompatibility of nano-carriers still need further research and evaluation; and how to achieve precisely targeted delivery of nano- carriers is also a key to the development of this technology.
Additionally, the gel slows
down the absorption of active substances on the skin surface, making it slower and gentler.
PERSONAL CARE May 2024
Conclusion With the continuous progress of nanotechnology and the continuous
development of the cosmetics market, nano delivery technology is expected to play a greater role in the cosmetics industry. Through in-depth research and innovation,
we hope to develop safer, more efficient, and more personalized cosmetics, bringing consumers a better skincare experience. At the same time, it is also necessary
to strengthen the development and implementation of relevant regulations and standards to ensure the healthy and sustainable development of nano delivery technology.
References 1. Alshawwa SZ et al. Nanocarrier Drug Delivery Systems: Characterization, Limitations, Future Perspectives and Implementation of Artificial Intelligence. Pharmaceutics. 2022; Apr 18;14(4):883
2. Hami Z. A Brief Review on Advantages of Nano-based Drug Delivery Systems. Annals of Military and Health Sciences Research. 2021;19(1)
3. Verma A, Panda PK, Jain SK. Niosome as a promising vesicular tool for therapy and diagnosis. In: Advanced Nanoformulations Theranostic Nanosystems Volume 3. 2023, pages 241-262. Academic Press.
4. Yokose U. The ceramide [NP]/[NS] ratio in the stratum corneum is a potential marker for skin properties and epidermal differentiation. BMC Dermatology. 2020; Aug 31;20(1):6.
5. Kazi KM et al. Niosome: A future of targeted drug delivery systems. J. Adv. Pharm. Technol. Res. 2010; Oct;1(4):374-80
6. Paiva-Santos AC et al. Cyclodextrins as an encapsulation molecular strategy for volatile organic compounds— Pharmaceutical applications. Colloids and Surfaces B: Biointerfaces. 2022; volume 218, 112758
7. Seiffert S, ed. Supramolecular Polymer Networks and Gels. Springer.
8. Arif T. Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review. Clin. Cosmet. Investig. Dermatol. 2015; 8: 455–461
9. Polyakov V. Nanoparticles-Based Delivery Systems for Salicylic Acid as Plant Growth Stimulator and Stress Alleviation. Plants. 2023, 12(8), 1637
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