68 MARINE INGREDIENTS
Restoring healthy skin with marine cholesterol
Lucie Brun, Pascale Goyat, Charlotte Vignal, George Rosson - Natura-Tec
The maintenance of a healthy skin comes from a delicate balance of microbes, that are part of the skin barrier, together with the individual’s innate immunity. If this fragile equilibrium is disturbed, the skin becomes more vulnerable to inflammatory diseases and cutaneous infections. The skin microbiome and the skin barrier,
relate symbiotically to affect each other in physical, chemical, and immunological ways and are essential to human health. The utilization of an active, safe to be used on all kinds of delicate skin, able to restore the skin barrier defense, and re-balance and nourish the skin microbiome, is a crucial strategy to improve consumer’s health. Natura-Tec has developed Marine
OceanMist CL™ - hereafter referred to as the Nannochloropsis extract - the perfect example of a responsible cosmetic ingredient, protecting the environment and the health of delicate skin, leading to a more serene and holistic wellbeing. This unique, natural, and sustainable
microalgae-derived active, rich in phytocholesterol, revealed strong repairing and boosting properties for the skin barrier function, creating perfect conditions to maintain and restore the microbiota’s healthy balance and work symbiotically with the immune system helping the skin to heal and protect itself. The Nannochloropsis extract is the result of extensive research, by our joint group
Natural moisturizing factors (NMFs)
biotechnology centre, produced thanks to a patented sustainable technology, using photobioreactors, and ensuring consistent quality and purity, combined with environmental compliance and minimal carbon footprint. The extract is based on the Nannochloropsis
Corneocyte/Horny cell
Cornified lipid envelope
Stratum corneum
Corneodesmosome
oculata microalgae species, carefully selected in Western Norway, for its unique ability to accumulate high content in cholesterol. Cholesterol is normally a minor component
of the overall plant sterol profile (<5%). The Nannochloropsis extract, thanks to specific and controlled microalgae culture conditions, associated to precise extraction processes, reveals a content in cholesterol which represents more than 70% of the total sterol fraction, being the very first substantial source of cholesterol from the vegetable kingdom. In human body, cholesterol is one of the most abundant lipids and plays both structural and functional roles. Embedded in the cell membrane, it influences membrane fluidity and permeability. Particularly in the skin stratum corneum,
Intercellular lipid Ceramides Free fatty acids Cholesterol
cholesterol is located in the hydrophobic extracellular lipid matrix and plasma membrane of corneocytes providing the principal barrier to the transcutaneous movement of water, electrolytes or microbes (Figure 1). The cholesterol in the Nannochloropsis
Structure of stratum corneum Figure 1: Stratum corneum structure PERSONAL CARE May 2024
extract, will be hydrolysed by skin-resident bacteria and yeasts into free fatty acids (FFA). FFA maintain a low pH that inhibits the growth of pathogenic species, while allowing persistence of commensal bacteria. The addition of cholesterol on skin restores skin barrier function and decreases pathogenic
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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