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NEWS


Gattefossé unveils oil- soluble eye care active


Gattefossé has taken the wraps off Eyeglorius, a lipophilic active ingredient for eye area care. Eyeglorius is said to be capable


of treating all signs of fatigue at the same time while opening up a myriad of possibilities for skincare and makeup formulations. The active ingredient is


derived from the leaves of sea buckthorn, which is reputed for its phytochemical richness, especially in triterpenic compounds. Triterpenoid acids (mainly


ursolic, maslinic, and oleanolic acids) have recognized effects on skin microcirculation by reducing inflammation-induced vascular permeability and reinforcing the endothelial barrier function. The ingredient is 100% of


natural origin according to the norm ISO16128, organic certified, RSPO


mass balance certified and China NMPA notified. A supply chain built with a


Canadian family-owned orchard ensures the traceability and high organic quality of the raw material. Two double-blind clinical


studies have confirmed Eyeglorius efficiency in reducing signs of fatigue. Tested against a placebo, it


achieves a significant reduction of


eye bags volume combined with a lighter appearance and smaller surface for dark circles. Due to its lipophilic


composition, Eyeglorius is said to a versatile technical ally for W/O and O/W formulations. Moreover, being heat resistant,


it can be incorporated into stick formulas or in a one-pot process. “In response to the trend


towards skinification in makeup, Gattefossé sought to provide cosmetic brands with a comprehensive solution,” said Gattefossé marketing leader for personal care actives Laurie Canel. “We leveraged our multiple


expertise to create Eyeglorius, a distinctive lipophilic active which is the perfect match between the expectations of formulators and consumers,” she added.


SNF launches next-gen rheology modifier


SNF has unveiled Natursol EMI Lite, a rheology modifier boasts a naturality index of 78% while combining light texture and stabilizing performance. The French manufacturer says


its superior biodegradability offers skincare formulators the opportunity to create luxurious textures without compromising eco-friendliness. Natursol EMI Lite is part of SNF’s


inverse emulsion polymer portfolio; it remains cold-processable, offering CO2


emissions and time savings for formulations. Crafted using patented


technology, Natursol EMI Lite undergoes rigorous OECD 301F testing, confirming its ready biodegradability performances. This new polymer offers a


Grant Industries unveils product trio Its sustainable profile and


US cosmetic actives maker Grant Industries took the wraps off three ingredients at the in- cosmetics Global trade show in Paris.


The new products are


Gransense TC-55X/C, Granactive Retinoid Pro+ and Bakuchiol Ester BCR. Gransense TC-55X/C is a


COSMOS-approved bio-based elastomer engineered to enhance skin care formulations with a substantial velvety skin feel.


PERSONAL CARE May 2024


exceptional performance are set to redefine expectations in skin care sensory experiences. Granactive Retinoid Pro+ is


an encapsulated retinoid that combines potent anti-ageing efficacy with antioxidant benefits. Bakuchiol Ester BCR, developed


in partnership with Bio Component Research, is a novel retinol alternative is backed by impressive clinical data, offering a compelling option for consumers seeking


perfect equilibrium between performance and sustainability, catering to environmentally conscious consumers’ and manufacturers’ demands. “At SNF, we are committed


to pushing the boundaries of sustainability without sacrificing performance,” said Pascal Boehm, SNF head of personal care. “This patented technology acts as a new platform, laying the foundation of sustainable solutions that will redefine the future of care,” he added.


Silab rolls out deodorant


ingredient French personal care ingredient maker Silab has taken the wraps off Deolya, a natural deodorant and soothing active ingredient made from meadowsweet. Combining hygiene and skin


care, it is said to limit odour and relieve irritations in delicate areas of the underarms. Among the broad diversity


of bacteria of the cutaneous microbiota, certain species stand out by their ability to produce odorous molecules. In particular, this is the case of Staphylococcus hominis. Silab developed an original modeling study that demonstrated quantitative (increased abundance) and qualitative modifications (increased enzymatic activity) of S. hominis strains sampled from the axillary microbiota of malodorous volunteers subjected to physical activity, compared to a non-odorous panel. In response to this problem,


Deolya limits the excessive abundance of S.hominis in the axillary cutaneous microbiota and targets the enzymatic activity of this bacterial species. The active ingredient thus has


a significant action on the source of perspiration odour while leaving the microbial diversity of this skin zone unaffected. Tested in a Caucasian panel


effective, plant-based anti- ageing ingredients. Additionally, Grant revealed


Granpowder BBP-700, an award-winning solution designed to support the unique needs of formulators. This product is said to be


particularly relevant for those navigating the complexities of recent ECHA microplastic regulations, providing a strategic advantage in product development.


of both sexes participating in a physical activity, Deolya was found to reduce perspiration odour by 58% as of the first application. This efficacy, assessed by


an olfactory evaluation from an expert panel qualified in sensorial measurement, was confirmed at the molecular level by a significant 76.3% reduction of the malodorous 3M3SH thiol. These effects are also observed


after seven days of daily use and without having applied the deodorant Deolya in the morning before the physical activity session, underlining the immediate and long-term effect of the deodorant.


www.personalcaremagazine.com


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