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COVER STORY: SHELL ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE


Finding sustainability outside of oleochemicals


In the ever-changing world of personal care product manufacturing, every ingredient counts. Formulators’ ingredient choices play a pivotal role in determining the product’s efficacy, quality, and performance. These choices now have an even more


significant role in consumer perception. Despite the allure of oleochemicals’ ability to be claimed as ‘natural’ and biodegradable, many consumers question the sustainability of sources derived from palm or similar ingredients.


May 2024 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●


MANUFACTURE GLOBAL


Consumers The shift in consumer consciousness toward the environmental impact and deforestation of “natural” products has reached a critical juncture. A recent consumer survey conducted


Interview: NYSCC chair Amber Evans & chair-elect John Carola


Consistent supply In personal care product manufacturing, a reliable supply of raw materials reigns supreme. Yet, lurking beneath the surface lies a pressing issue in personal care: the regulatory landscape surrounding the feedstocks for oleochemicals. This ingredient faces mounting scrutiny,


potentially hindering global accessibility, and manufacturers might not be innovating quickly enough. In a study conducted by the Net Zero Intelligence Unit (NZIU), only three of the ten biggest beauty and personal care manufacturers have clear targets for eliminating deforestation from their supply chains without relying on responsible sourcing credits. Addressing these targets and challenges


sooner rather than later will be essential to prevent future supply chain disruption as these regulatory pressures intensify.


In focus: Anti-ageing Skin microbiome Trending technologies


Plus: Understanding consumer views of colour cosmetics


twist to the mix. For manufacturers, this shifting landscape presents a formidable challenge. Pending regulations, particularly those from


the European Union (EU), will mandate that products derived from seven key commodities must prove they are “deforestation-free”. Palm oil, topping the list of these commodities, encounters the greatest inspection under these regulations. To be compliant from 30 December 2024,


manufacturers must provide documentation that the area of production complies with local social and environmental law. The area of production is narrowed down to the geographical coordinates of the plots of land where the commodities were produced. This leaves manufacturers to seek


alternatives to ensure the products they source meet these rigorous requirements.


Certification To adhere to rigid requirements, manufacturers should seek supply chain solutions that provide assurances. Third-party certification bodies are available but vary in their ability to meet societal and environmental regulations. Pending regulation will require these


Regulation compliance Change is the only constant as regulatory compliance continues to evolve, and each region or jurisdiction can add its own unique


www.personalcaremagazine.com


certification bodies to strengthen their processes to meet the legal obligations; however, the manufacturer’s burden to secure reliable supply may be challenging. In fact, one of the leading schemes has less than 50% of its current production “certified”. Manufacturers that depend on that qualified


supply may be compelled to seek new sources or suppliers.


in Germany sheds light on their buying preferences, and shows a clear lean toward products labeled “free-from” palm oil as opposed to those touted as “sustainably sourced”. Millennials, known for their eco-conscious


mindset, responded with nearly 50% noting they actively avoid products containing non- sustainable palm oil. Consumer protections are increasingly subject to proposed legislation as evidenced by the EU’s proposed Directive on Greenwashing (2024/825), which is designed to ban misleading environmental claims by enforcing third-party certification. Manufacturers need to consider not only the


regulatory risks but also the reputational risks from supply chain sourcing and labeling. The personal care industry stands at a


crossroads where the choice of ingredients can make all the difference in product efficacy, environmental impact, brand reputation and consumer preference. The increasing burdens placed on


manufacturers to ensure their supply chains meet regulatory requirements come with risks, including the ability to source reliable supply and potential cost increases. Manufacturers need to explore all possible


alternatives to help ensure supply chain resilience and meet today’s consumer and regulatory demands.


PC


7


Shell Chemical LP 150 N. Dairy Ashford Drive Houston Texas 77079 USA www.shell.com/chemicals/personal-care


May 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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