Volume 25 Issue 5
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CONTENTS
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Editor’s Comment Cover Story: Shell News
86 Formulations Get inspiration for your next project with a selection of prototype formulations from the world’s leading ingredient suppliers
FEATURES
16 Interview: Taking the chair Ahead of the 45th annual Suppliers’ Day, editor Tim Probert caught up with New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists chair Amber Evans and chair-elect John Carola, who is also personal care business development manager of New Jersey-based distributor Katonah Chemical
21 Understanding consumer views
of colour cosmetics Eastman recently conducted a study across six countries and 4,000 consumers. The data and resulting insights reveal what drives consumer purchases of colour cosmetics, product features with less consumer satisfaction, consumer knowledge and
expectations on sustainability 27 Microbiological quality of personal
care products Eurofins explores the various methodologies that cosmetics manufacturers can employ to evaluate their products for the presence of microbial contamination, and for the efficacy of their products’ preservatives
32 Boosting NAD+ levels
for skin longevity Mibelle Biochemistry investigates the potential of sunflower sprout active, a product derived from organically grown sunflower sprouts, for promoting skin rejuvenation. In vitro and ex vivo studies have shown that sunflower sprouts can combat ageing processes by elevating NAD+ levels, enhancing DNA repair, improving mitochondrial function, and increasing collagen density
45 Cleaning the skin: easier
said than done The well-established habit of using surfactant-based products to clean the skin has an undeniable destructive effect on our skin barrier. A novel natural solution is to use a particular rice starch that only removes what is on the skin and does not remove the precious skin lipids deeper in the stratum
corneum, as Gobiotics explains 51 Nanocarrier delivery
technology in cosmetics Aneco describes the advantages of different preparation technologies in various types of cosmetics raw materials, providing new innovative technologies and better quality for
product applications 37 Universal skin-illuminating
prebiotic molecule Givaudan Active Beauty has developed an ingredient that features a skin and prebiotic mode of action that acts holistically on specific skin bacteria, targeting common pigmentation pathways to provide skin brightening and enhance skin radiance, whether the users are in Africa, Asia, Europe or elsewhere
41 Liberating the relaxing power
of watercress Muscle contraction and cell signaling linked to wellness mediators share a common mineral-dependent regulation, so Silab has harnessed the mineral richness of the watercress plant to develop a natural relaxing
active ingredient 68 Restoring healthy skin
with marine cholesterol Natura-Tec has developed a Nannochloropsis extract marine ingredient rich in phytocholesterol. This microalgae-derived active has been found to offer strong repairing and boosting properties for the skin barrier function
75 Marine biotic ingredient
for skin eubiosis Applying blue biotechnology, MC Actives and Microalgae Solutions biomimic marine benthic conditions to produce marine extracts rich in polyphenols and saccharides. This article describes a biotic ingredient to combat dysbiosis and improve skin integrity in acne-prone skin and oily skin
81 Unraveling complexities
of the skin microbiome Biocogent explains why it is critical for microbiome-based innovations to be promoted and conveyed to the consumer with clarity and an appreciation for the sophistication of the subject matter and technology
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May 2024 PERSONAL CARE 56 Mānuka: unleashing New
Zealand’s biodiversity New Zealand’s indigenous Māori people has long revered the mānuka tree (Leptospermum scoparium) for its myriad medicinal properties. Here, Organic Bioactives presents a novel cosmetic active made using mānuka leaf extract, promising high-efficacy in skin, scalp, and hair care
63 Next-gen Lactobacillus
ferment lysate ingredients By exploring the prebiotic effect of certain Chinese medicinal plants, SpecChem introduces two newLactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients for the upgrading of micro-ecological personal care products
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