SKIN CARE
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Universal skin-illuminating prebiotic molecule
Catherine Zanchetta, Amandine Scandolera, Mathias Fleury, Cloé Boira, Daniel Auriol, Emilie Chapuis, Fabrice Lefèvre and Romain Reynaud – Givaudan Active Beauty
What is considered beautiful can differ dramatically by country and continent, but the pursuit of beautiful skin is universal. If the beauty industry is to deliver universally efficient and inclusive skincare products effectively, it must explore skin physiology and conditions across diverse populations. By understanding the behaviours, biology, environment and lived experiences of beauty consumers worldwide, we can embrace diversity and inclusivity in skincare innovation, while celebrating regional differences, traditions and needs. Achieving beautiful skin requires the
right combination of physiological balance, mental well-being and cosmetic treatments. In addition, there are biological differences among ethnicities and populations, including specific skin physiological parameters. These include differences in skin structure and composition,1,2 ageing,3,4 types.5
and the prevalence of specific skin
Introducing the mono glycosylated- EGCG, a study in universality As part of Givaudan’s roadmap to create universal cosmetics, our Active Beauty lab created an ingenious brightening molecule, Illuminyl 388 – hereafter, the mono glycosylated-EGCG – with a prebiotic mode of
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action involving specific bacteria to deliver a holistic luminous effect. To ensure universal application for
a diverse range of consumers, our team actively investigated what makes regional skin types and microbiomes similar, as opposed to distinct, when creating this mono glycosylated-EGCG. We identified shared characteristics in cell receptors and microbiota compositions, irrespective of location or ethnicity. To substantiate this finding, we measured
the efficacy of our innovative lightening molecule through a series of scientific studies featuring four different ethnicities to transcend traditional geographical boundaries. The ingredient is based on
skin marking, features and facial
Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), an iconic antioxidant molecule extracted from one of the most inspiring plants on our planet: green tea (Camellia sinensis). This new brightening active targets all of the classical pathways of the pigmentation process for optimal efficacy and, with an added twist, reinforces these known benefits through a synergistic prebiotic activity.
Designed by biocatalysis: An organic alternative to chemical synthesis Biocatalysis has been central to Givaudan’s innovation process for many years, and is
ABSTRACT
For beauty products to be truly inclusive, they must work for all skin types and conditions, and in every region of the world. Givaudan Active Beauty has developed Illuminyl™ 388, which features a skin and prebiotic mode of action that acts holistically on specific skin bacteria, targeting common pigmentation pathways to provide skin brightening and enhance skin radiance, whether the users are in Africa, Asia, Europe or elsewhere. To test the universality of this innovative treatment, Givaudan undertook a series of clinical studies to measure efficacy on four different ethnicities.
the driving force behind many of our recent successful product launches. By harnessing the ability of natural enzymes to perform chemical reactions, we can produce organic molecules with enhanced properties, as compared to traditional chemical synthesis. For example, the active ingredient
in Illuminyl 388 is derived from EGCG, a polyphenol found in green tea. However, like all polyphenols, EGCG is poorly soluble in water and highly sensitive to oxidation. Through precision biocatalysis, Givaudan
May 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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