38 SKIN CARE
Active Beauty performed a glucosylation of the EGCG molecule to successfully graft a glucose group to the backbone of the molecule. This high precision molecular change drastically improved its stability by a factor of two and its solubility by a factor of eight. The result is an augmented molecule that is unique in its biodisponibility and efficacy.
Universal evaluation for a universal skincare product When developing and assessing this new active ingredient, Givaudan focused on several key trends and pressing needs in the beauty industry. These included consumer demand for faster results when treating pigmentation, customer requirements for efficacy at a low dosage and proof of efficacy on various skin types. Universal evaluation was necessary to
achieve and substantiate our ambitions for universal, diverse and inclusive skincare. Our clinical studies covered four different countries and featured more than 200 women of different skin types, skin tones, behaviours and lifestyles. The first of these, a clinical study on Asian skin, demonstrated a clear improvement of skin radiance in just one month (x3.3), as compared to Vitamin C, with the spotted area drastically reduced, again more significantly than with Vitamin C. This efficacy was even stronger after two months (Figure 1). Given Asia is one of the largest markets for brightening skincare treatments, these results demonstrate the sizeable potential of this mono glycosylated-EGCG in this region. The second clinical test was conducted on
volunteers in Africa, with the active ingredient compared to a placebo and to the native EGCG to measure the potency of the augmented molecules. After two weeks, the results were already
very strong, with volunteers showing a very significant improvement in skin luminosity. This benefit increased over time, with an exciting
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Figure 1: Illustrative photos of skin radiance improvement following the application of Illuminyl 388 on Asian women
build-up of the product’s efficacy and an improvement of skin luminosity (+6.8%). The clinical study in Europe featured
volunteers with Caucasian skin and challenging brown spots on their hands. On average, after two months of use, the melanin content in the skin significantly decreased, demonstrating the ingredient’s brightening and homogenising activity. For the final clinical trial in India, we
focused further on skin tone and skin tone homogeneity. After only two weeks (Figure 2), our volunteers displayed a substantial improvement in skin tone compared to the placebo, with impressive lightening of more than 132%.
Exploring the science: Studying the biological mechanisms of the mono glycosylated-EGCG Further studies measured the antioxidant potency of the mono glycosylated-EGCG by investigating the universal skin penetration of
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the augmented module. Glycosylation is a promising strategy for
improving a molecule’s stability or efficacy, and also its penetration through a better skin affinity. To prove this hypothesis, we used the Confocal Raman spectroscopy to track the penetration of molecules into the skin of our mono glycosylated-EGCG as compared to native EGCG. The Confocal Raman spectroscopy is a
powerful non-invasive tool used in several scientific fields to characterise and track very small molecules. It is based on the energy transfer between the light emitted by the Raman laser and the material, with the gain or loss of energy translated in the Raman spectra specific to one molecule. After topical application on skin explants
for eight hours, our tests revealed that the penetration of the mono glycosylated- EGCG was significantly increased by 90% in comparison to EGCG, reaching 65µm of depth into the tissue. Through our mono glycosylated-EGCG, therefore, we have been able to create an optimised form of EGCG with unrivalled skin affinity (Figure 3). The mono glycosylated-EGCG is
transported into the cells by a universal carrier, which is present in all skin types. To assess the affinity to this carrier, we undertook a molecular docking simulation, which revealed the affinity of Illuminyl 388 for this carrier to be higher than native EGCG.
Figure 2: Illustrative photos of skin radiance improvement following the application of Illuminyl 388 on Indian women
PERSONAL CARE May 2024
Achieving universal and exhaustive biological lightening targets To understand how our mono glycosylated- EGCG active brings greater brightening efficacy to the skin, it is first necessary to study the skin pigmentation process. The skin has a natural pigmentation mechanism that begins with the upregulation of the melanogenesis process and may be reinforced by external factors, such as oxidation or UV exposure. This process drives the activity of key enzymes such as tyrosinase, which directly contribute to melanin production.
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