42 ANTI-AGEING Control
10 5 0
-5
-10 -15
-20 -25 -30 -35
-21 ** * * * Significant result(s)/control: **: P<0.01 --- *: P<0.05.
Figure 1: Mechanism of muscle contraction leading to the formation of expression wrinkles
mature group with pronounced expression wrinkles) and a mature Asian panel. All subjects were selected according to a moderate to considerable stress level, determined using the Perceived Stress Scale questionnaire (PSS10). The results demonstrated the ‘Botox-like’
effect of the Nasturtium officinale extract at 2%. Indeed, as of only five days of use, the first expression wrinkles of young Caucasian volunteers are attenuated on the forehead by 3.2%, on the glabella by 5.1% and on the nasolabial fold by 3.8%. The pronounced expression wrinkles
of mature Caucasian volunteers are also smoothed on the forehead by 10.4%, on the crow’s feet by 8.6%, on the glabella by 8.3% and on the nasolabial fold by 4.2% (Figure 3). This results in a reduction of perceived
age by three years according to a panel of untrained evaluators. This anti-wrinkle effect is also seen in mature Asian volunteers as of 28 days of application. An original study also showed the ‘soft
focus’ effect of the Nasturtium officinale extract at 2%, assessed by a panel of untrained evaluators using digital photos in comparison to a retouched photo. As of five days of twice daily application,
and compared to a placebo, the active ingredient provides a visible result very close to that of the retouched photo, both in the young and mature panels. This effect intensifies after 28 days of
treatment, when the improvement score given to the Silab retouched photo is no longer significantly higher from that given to the image after the application of the Nasturtium officinale extract (Figure 4). These results demonstrate that the effect of this ingredient is similar to that obtained with a retouched photo.
Stimulating the mediators of wellbeing for a strengthened barrier function The oxytocin pathway Oxytocin, nicknamed the ‘happy hormone’, is known for its major involvement in stress reduction by providing an appeasement effect. In the skin, oxytocin (OXT) is secreted in the
PERSONAL CARE May 2024
Figure 2: Effect of α-bungarotoxin, a positive control with a muscle relaxant activity, and the Nasturtium officinale extract on the contraction of muscle fibres after six hours
epidermis and the dermis. Its receptor (OXTR), whose activation is mineral-dependent, is also expressed in the skin. In particular, activation of this pathway regulates cell proliferation.8,17 The mechanoreceptor PIEZO1 is an ion
channel expressed by keratinocytes and nerve endings. It stimulates sensory nerve fibres and transmits the sensation of touching the skin to the brain. It was recently shown that the activation of PIEZO1 by gentle tactile stimulations induces the secretion of oxytocin by keratinocytes.10,18 Tested at 0.5% on human keratinocytes,
the Nasturtium officinale extract significantly boosts the expressions of PIEZO1, oxytocin and the oxytocin receptor by 87%, 175% and 551% respectively, as well as keratinocyte proliferation by 69%. In an original way, cutaneous oxytocin secretion was investigated in vivo. After five days of application, this natural active ingredient at 2% boosts the production
D0, BEFORE TREATMENT
of oxytocin in young Caucasian volunteers by 65.2% and in mature Caucasian volunteers by 137.1%, compared to the placebo. This effect intensifies after 28 days of treatment. Thanks to its action on oxytocin, the
Nasturtium officinale extract improves perception of the stress level by young and mature Caucasian volunteers after 28 days of treatment, according to their answers to the PSS10 questionnaire and compared to a placebo treatment.
The endocannabinoid pathway Known for binding the active molecules of cannabis, endocannabinoid receptors are also involved in regulating stress-induced mechanisms in order to limit the associated reactions. Signaling to the cutaneous receptor CB1 is activated in periods of acute psychological stress and restores an effective barrier function.9 Tested at 1% on explants of human skin,
D5, AFTER TREATMENT WITH NASTURTIUM OFFICINALE EXTRACT AT 2%
-21 -25 -31 8 -39% α-bungarotoxin 2 µM 0.5%
Nasturtium officinale extract 1.0%
2.0%
Figure 3: Visualization of the anti-wrinkle effect of the Nasturtium officinale extract on the face of mature Caucasian volunteers as of five days of treatment
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Percentage of contractions (%)
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