SKIN CARE This all takes place in the melanosomes,
which are organelles found in the melanocytes. During the pigmentation process, more and more melanosomes first occur and then evolve through different stages (known as melanosome maturation) before travelling to the dendrites of the melanocytes to transport and integrate the melanin in the surrounding keratinocytes (known as endocytosis). The beauty of Illuminyl 388 is that it
directly targets all of the major steps of this pigmentation process, as demonstrated by our study of transcriptomics. For this, our R&D experts evaluated the activity of the active ingredient on the typical genes involved in skin pigmentation. In these tests, we observed a strong
down-regulation of genes, such as the tyrosine kinase receptor (KIT) and the microphthalmia- associated transcription factor (MITF), that are responsible for the melanogenesis regulation, as well as direct action on tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein. In addition, our mono glycosylated-EGCG inhibited the melanosome biogenesis (their creation and maturation) and even the melanin transfer to the keratinocytes.
Achieving universal prebiotic activity We cannot talk about glucose and glycosylation without talking about microbiota. Carbohydrates are a major source of energy for bacteria and, as revealed during a first study, our mono glycosylated-EGCG was consumed by certain bacteria strains. To investigate this further, we undertook
a second study that revealed that the active ingredient significantly increased the growth of a specific bacteria strain (Lactobacillus acidophilus) by 27%. According to our microbiome experts and as shared in our latest scientific publications and communications,6,7 Lactobacillus is a bacterial genus present on the skin of different ethnicities in different world regions. Further, some species, including
Lactobacillus sp., have been found to play a key role in skin photoprotection;8
through the release of antioxidant, anti- for example, 0.3 10 0.25 20 0.2 30 0.15 40 0.1 50 0.05 60 0 0 20 40 60 80 Length X (µm) Figure 3: Improved bioaccumulation of the EGCG-augmented molecule
inflammatory and even lightening metabolites. We were excited about the potential for
Illuminyl 388 to achieve prebiotic lightening. To investigate further, we employed nuclear magnetic resonance to assess Lactobacillus acidophilus culture related to the use of the mono glycosylated-EGCG. Our tests showed that the active
significantly increased the release of a niacin- derivative by 65%. This ‘methylated niacin’ is known to have an inhibitory action on tyrosinase, and, thus, a brightenyl activity. Finally, following our B-Biome™ score
referential, we evaluated the friendliness of our active on skin microbiota. This standard has been peer-reviewed and is dermatologist- supported.9
It awards Illuminyl 388 a high
score of B for preserving the microbiota balance for the duration of our clinical studies. For comparison, a whitening molecule such as vitamin C has a score of E, demonstrating a strong negative effect on the microbiome.
Conclusion As illustrated by our worldwide clinical studies, our augmented EGCG molecule, successfully targets the four main stages of skin pigmentation, reinforced by a synergistic prebiotic activity. The active ingredient was tested on more than 200 volunteers representing four different ethnicities and global locations to ensure the universality of this innovative ingredient. Furthermore, our scientific studies and
clinical trials have shown the mode of action to be effective and suitable for all skin types, with our mono glycosylated-EGCG performing significantly better than our two benchmarks (Vitamin C and native EGCG). Illuminyl 388 is a universal skin illuminating
Figure 4: Mode of action of Illuminyl 388
www.personalcaremagazine.com
prebiotic offering unrivalled results. The active ingredient delivers rapid benefits for users, with never-before-seen brightening results in only two weeks. It promises to be a game- changer for our industry, not just in terms of its brightening ability, but also its suitability for universal and inclusive application.
References 1. Lintzeri DA, Karimian N, Blume-Peytavi U, Kottner J. Epidermal thickness in healthy humans: a systematic review and meta- analysis. J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. 2022;36(8):1191-1200
2. Alexis AF, Woolery-Lloyd H, Williams K et al. Racial/Ethnic Variations in Skin Barrier: Implications for Skin Care Recommendations in Skin of Color. J. Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(9):932-938
3. Vashi NA, de Castro Maymone MB, Kundu RV. Aging Differences in Ethnic Skin. J. Clin. Aesthet. Dermatol. 2016;9(1):31-38
4. Flament F, Bazin R. Influences of age, ethnic group, and skin sites on a provisory skin marking, experimentally induced, in vivo. Skin Res. Technol. 2018;24(2): 180-186
5. Wu Y, Wangari-Olivero J, Zhen Y. Compromised Skin Barrier and Sensitive Skin in Diverse Populations. J. Drugs Dermatol. 2021;20(4):s17-s22
6. Zanchetta C, Vilanova D, Jarrin C et al. Bacterial taxa predictive of hyperpigmented skins. Health Sci. Rep. 2022;5(3):e609
7. Jarrin C, Vilanova D, Zanchetta C et al. Sensitive skin: an insight in microbiota composition and comparison with microbiota of normal skin. IFSCC Mag. 2020;23(1):45-54
8. Masjedi M, Solhjoo A. Does trigonelline help skin tone? Molecular docking studies of trigonelline on the human tyrosinase, formulation, optimization, and characterization of an emulgel-containing Trigonella foenum-graecum L. fenugreek standardized hydroalcoholic extract. J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 2022;21(12):7178-7193
PC
9. Robe P, Jarrin C, Zanchetta C, Dupont J, Chapuis E, Scandolera A, Auriol D, Reynaud R. Rehabilitation of Skin Bacterial Counts to Assess the Short-Term Impact of Ingredients in Topical Applications— Presenting a Culture-Based Viability Score. Cosmetics. 2023; 10(2):50
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