76 SKIN MICROBIOME


vitro, in wound healing; in the fight against pathogens; in modulating the immune system, and in preventing melanoma.3 Prebiotics are defined as non-digestible


foods that stimulate the growth and activity of the microbiota. They are mostly plant-based sugar molecules and oils. Postbiotics refer to soluble factors (products


or metabolic byproducts), secreted by live bacteria or released after bacterial lysis, such as enzymes, peptides, peptidoglycan-derived muropeptides, polysaccharides, cell surface proteins, and organic acids.6 Active ingredients and products containing


prebiotics and postbiotics that balance the microbiome could help to improve the clinical signs related to each skin condition. There is evidence that topical formulas modulate the skin microbiome mainly via their antibacterial activity against C.acnes and/or S.aureus, the two major implicated microorganisms in skin disorders, and have a positive impact in skin health and beauty.7 Dysbiosis in acne-prone skin can favour the


overproduction of sebum and, consequently, the reduction of pore size, improvement of lesions caused by acne, redness, and inflammation.8,9 Postbiotic molecules can contribute to


regulating some biological mechanisms implied in skin health. Some polyphenols are considered 5α-reductase inhibitors, an enzyme that converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT is related to inflammatory processes, sebum increase, and hair loss.10,11


Biotic ingredient to achieve skin eubiosis Synbiötik Bio Phycoskin is a biotic ingredient to combat dysbiosis and improve skin integrity in acne-prone skin and oily-prone skin. Its exclusive blend of prebiotic and


postbiotic molecules contributes to i) reducing facial skin sebum, ii) ameliorating acne lesions; and iii) reducing pore size. The mechanism of action of the biotic ingredient is depicted in Figure 1. Prebiotic molecules of the biotic ingredient nourish the skin microbiota, contributing to skin eubiosis. Sucrose (Figure 2) is able to increase S.epidermidis populations and, consequently, decrease C.acnes populations.12


40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0


Gallic acid Caffeic acid Daidzein Figure 3: HPLC-DAD-MS-Qtof determination of individual polyphenols of the biotic ingredient PERSONAL CARE May 2024


Figure 1: Mechanism of action of the biotic ingredient


1.2e+07 1.1e+07 1e+07


9000000 8000000 7000000 6000000 5000000 4000000 3000000 2000000 1000000


00 12.00 14.00 16.00 18.00 Time (min)


Figure 2: Saccharide profile of the biotic ingredient. Analysed with high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC)


also helps to repair the dysbiosis condition by inhibiting S.aureus populations.13 Galactosyl-glycerol (Figure 2) has a similar


This saccharide


function to glycerol; both are osmolytes that contribute to reducing oxidative stress and can be fermented by S. epidermidis to improve skin barrier function.14


The eubiosis stage, where S. aureus and C.


acnes populations are reduced, contributes to diminishing sebum accumulation, reduce pore size, reduce inflammation, and ameliorate acne lesions. Postbiotic molecules of the biotic ingredient


undergo specific metabolic routes inhibiting 5α-reductase and accomplish bioactive functions such as oxidative stress reduction. We identified marine polyphenols: caffeic acid, gallic acid, and daidzein (Figure 3) and postbiotic vitamins, including C, A, and E vitamins, and B complex vitamins such as B12 and B3 vitamins. Gallic acid and caffeic acid have


demonstrated to inhibit the action of the enzyme 5-α reductase,15, 16


and consequently


inhibit the production of DHT, whose effects have been mentioned in the previous section. Additionally, gallic acid has been reported to be a potent antioxidant.17 Vitamins perform an important role in sebum


control. As an example, vitamin B3 (niacin), detected in the biotic ingredient, reduces sebum and inflammatory processes caused by


www.personalcaremagazine.com 20.00


2-Galactosyl- glycerol


1-Galactosyl- glycerol


Sucrose


Di-Galactosyl- glycerol


22.00


24.00


Content (mg/L·103


)


Abundance


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