SKIN MICROBIOME
63
Next-gen Lactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients
Kai Lu - SpecChem
The concept of micro-ecological skin care is gaining popularity as people around the globe are placing more emphasis on healthy skin and recognising the importance of scientific skin care. In recent years, consumers have become increasingly receptive to this concept, which has led to a strong interest in micro-ecological skincare products in the market.1
Some
industry giants such as L’Oréal list micro- ecological skin care as one of their research and development priorities. Micro-ecology skincare products emphasise the importance of balancing the skin’s micro- ecosystem, promoting the reproduction of resident flora while controlling the growth of harmful flora, thereby improving skin health.2,3 As early as 1980, SK-II launched the first
representative product of micro-ecological skincare, in which the core ingredient, Pitera, is galactomyces ferment filtrate. Currently, there are three major types of micro-ecological skincare products (Table 1).2,4 The first type use ‘probiotics’, which
involves the direct addition of live bacteria. The second one employs ‘prebiotics’, which promotes microecological balance by feeding probiotics with nutrients. The third category adds ‘postbiotics’, which includes various metabolites of bacteria, to regulate the micro- ecological balance.
Cosmetic ingredients combining prebiotic and postbiotic features are still scarce Micro-ecological skincare products are coming into their own. Within this trend, skincare products in the prebiotic and postbiotic categories are particularly important for technical and policy reasons. From a market perspective, there is a growing consumer demand for micro-
Component ABSTRACT
In recent years, the cosmetic industry has witnessed the rapid rise of skincare concepts focused on skin micro-ecology. In this wave, ever more cosmetic brands have developed innovative products with both prebiotic and postbiotic characteristics. However, relevant ingredients combining both prebiotics and postbiotic characteristics are still lacking. By exploring the prebiotic effect of certain Chinese medicinal plants, SpecChem introduces two new Lactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients, SpecBio® LF Hydrogel and SpecBio LF Filtrate, for the upgrading of micro-ecological personal care products.
ecological skincare products, yet, the majority of current skincare products are still focused on traditional ingredients. In particular, skincare products that offer a
combination of prebiotics and postbiotics are relatively rare. This gap between the demand and supply creates good opportunities and has already drawn increased attention from innovative companies. However, there is a lack of cosmetic ingredients which exhibit both prebiotic and postbiotic characteristics for this valuable and unique type of personal care products.
TABLE 1: THREE MAJOR TYPES OF MICRO-ECOLOGICAL SKIN CARE PRODUCTS USING PROBIOTICS Type
1 2 3
Probiotics A group of microorganisms that are beneficial to the host by affecting the composition of the flora in a particular part of the body.
Prebiotics Nutrients that can be absorbed by symbiotic bacteria and promotes the growth and balance of the flora, which is beneficial to skin health.
Postbiotics Small molecule metabolites produced by microorganisms, involved in the information exchange between microorganisms and microorganisms, microorganisms and skin, creating a suitable living environment for symbiotic bacteria.
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Exploring the prebiotic effects of traditional Chinese medicine At SpecChem, scientists tried to develop this kind of ingredients which combines both prebiotic and postbiotic features by exploring the prebiotic benefits of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Correspondingly, SpecChem has introduced SpecBio LF Series as next generation Lactobacillus ferment lysate ingredients. In order to select safe and effective plant
extracts with prebiotic effects, the SpecChem R&D team first delved into the traditional Chinese pharmacopoeia to generate a screening library containing a large number of TCM ingredients. After a down-to-earth screening of both
extracts form these medicinal ingredients and potential production strains, SpecChem finally select the SC0009 that exhibit excellent metabolite-producing capacity and locked in extracts from two Chinese medicine
Representative Ingredient
Lactobacillus ferment, Yeast ferment extract
Sugar isomers, Oligofructose, Bioglycans
Bifida ferment lysate, Bifida ferment lysate filtrate, Yeast peptides
May 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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