70 MARINE INGREDIENTS


of poor barrier function, increased microbial and irritant penetration into deeper skin layers, and increased chronic inflammation then itching and further skin damage is developed.3 The Nannochloropsis extract has been


tested on a reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, mimicking this inflammatory context of AD, through Th-2 cytokines stimulation (IL-25; IL-4; IL-13). This ‘RHE/Th-2’ model demonstrated that many genes involved in skin barrier, lipid metabolism and transport, axon guidance and inflammation, are dysregulated, like the inflammatory context of AD. The RHE, stimulated by Th-2 cytokines,


presents alteration of morphology, pyknotic nuclei, œdema and impaired barrier. The Nannochloropsis extract drastically repairs skin barrier and reduces numbers of pyknotic nuclei œdema typical of atopic skin, by reducing cell inflammation and protecting cells from abnormal deterioration (Figure 2). The Nannochloropsis extract counteracts


negative effects of inflammatory responses, restores homeostasis, reduces skin alterations of atopic skin, promoting healthier skin conditions. In addition, the Nannochloropsis extract acts on the abundance of three key proteins involved in skin barrier function: Filaggrin, Involucrin and Carbonic Anhydrase 2, whose levels are strongly modified in atopic skin, with a dose-dependent beneficial effect (Figure 3). Remarkably, the Nannochloropsis extract


allowed the restoration of 70% of filaggrin abundance and 169% of the involucrin abundance with 5% of use (Figure 4 and 5). Therefore, by modulating the key structural


proteins involved in AD, the Nannochloropsis extract counteracts the deleterious effects of interleukins over-production; re-builds a strong barrier; re-structures the cornified envelope;


40.000 35.000 30.000 25.000 20.000 15.000 10.000 5.000 0


70.000 60.000 50.000 40.000 30.000 20.000 10.000 0


Oily skin


Normal skin Dry skin


0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 Volunteers


Figure 6: Skin type can be classified thanks to the measurement of the total aerobic microbiota count


increases moisture retention; restores ion homeostasis, water transport and cellular pH; helps to reduce immune inflammation and to restore a healthier skin condition in atopic dermatitis or sensitive skin.


Skin microbiome improvement of very dry and sensitive skin with active Similar to eczema, sensitive skin symptoms confirmed the involvement of skin barrier disruption, drier skin, and immune mechanisms, combined to cutaneous nerve endings, epidermal cells, and sensory proteins dysfunction. The impaired barrier may trigger both vascular


hyper-reactivity and sensory perceptions involving unpleasant discomfort sensations. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner stratum corneum may contribute to a greater penetration of chemical, environmental and microbial agents


associated with increased skin sensitivity.4 The delicate balance of the skin microbiota has


a strong influence on the functional differences between healthy skin and damaged skin. For example, low hydration skin has low levels of total microbiota, compared to high hydration volunteers, together with a lower bacterial diversity. By the measurement of the total bacterial


count, the face skin can be classified as dry, normal, or oily (Figure 6). If each person’s skin carries a unique combination of microbes, low hydration skins feature lower levels of total microbiota compared to high hydration skins. The in vivo influence of the Nannochloropsis


extract, on face skin microbiota behavior, has been evaluated with the quantification of the aerobic and anaerobic microbiota count, on a panel of volunteers with sensitive and very dry skin.


Firstly, volunteers declaring sensitive skin


and with a total aerobic microbiota count in the range of dry skin-type microbiota (< 3000 CFU/cm2


, CFU = colony forming units) have 33,578 18,809


Normal skin


727 T-7 days Placebo 1,282 T0 T+7 days T+14 days +3% Nannochloropsis extract


Figure 7: Average variation of the aerobic microbiota counts after a treatment without or with 3% of Nannochloropsis extract


FIGURE 9: RESULTS OF THE TISSUE VIABILITY AND THE INTERLEUKIN RELEASE IL-1a ASSAY No product


100% Nannochloropsis extract


Negative control Tissue viability IR: treated/control


100% 1


PERSONAL CARE May 2024 Test Item


99% 2


100% LA (linalyl acetate)


Inflammatory positive control (LA)


9% 7


0.5% SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate)


Cytotoxicity positive control (SLS)


1% 234 Dry skin


been selected. A preconditioning treatment with the placebo cream (without the active) is used, for seven days, then the microbiota was monitored and considered as time point 0 (T0) microbiota. After that, the Active was applied for 14 days. The behaviour of the microbiota in response to the treatment was measured in aerobic and anaerobic conditions, at two time points (T7 and T14). The mean variation of microbiota is evaluated for each volunteer, and globally as the mean of all volunteers. The aerobic microbiota counts at T0, after


the placebo treatment during a week, is still in the range of dry skin-type microbiota (Figure 7). The placebo has no significant skin impact. Regarding the use of 3% of Nannochloropsis extract, the total aerobic microbiota counts increased in 7 and 14 days, reaching a normal skin-type microbiota. The Nannochloropsis extract has excellent microbiota balancing properties for dry skin, restoring a normal healthy microbiome level. Also, for each volunteer and timepoint


the phenotypes of the collected colonies are evaluated and 1 colony for each phenotype


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Aerobic microbiota count, CFU/cm2


Total aerobic microbiota count, CFU/cm2


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