SKIN MICROBIOME
components on the ingredient list of the many yogurts. Lactobacilli are Gram-positive bacteria that
purportedly can ameliorate generalized skin inflammation and more serious conditions like atopic dermatitis.17
of these bacteria can be observed whether the organism is alive or not as lysates of Lactobacilli can also render ameliorative effects.14
However,
once the organism in question is no longer living, as in the form of a lysate, ferment, or extract, the ingredient can longer be considered a probiotic, but rather a postbiotic. Consider the many probiotic skin products
that a cursory internet search will generate. Many different materials will be displayed with widely varied claims. In the descriptions offered by the various products listed, there are few specifics as to the mechanism, duration, and scope of their action. A note of ‘murkiness’: many companies
market their products as probiotics while clearly stating that their ingredients are ‘non- viable’ lysates or extracts of formerly living microorganisms. Once again, such items are technically no longer probiotics, but rather a form of postbiotic.
Postbiotics The most recent category of microbiome modulator is that of postbiotics, where the
It is also here where a degree
of nuance is required in elaborating upon the methodology and the benefits. Scientific studies have shown that the benefits
microorganism is completely jettisoned in favour of harvesting and utilizing the beneficial bio-molecules that the microbe produces.13 Generally speaking, this group of active
ingredients is represented by molecules that have been purified from their microbial source by either a chemical extraction process or fermentation.18
Depending on the particular
microbe of interest, one or the other approach will render a greater quantity of bio-active materials for use in a skin care product. The attractiveness of the postbiotic
approach is that the growth of a microorganism is no longer under consideration. Postbiotics are solely focused on the biological molecules that beneficial microbes produce as part of their life cycle. Many factors beyond the control of the
cosmetic care industry can influence an individual’s skin microbial community, which adds a degree of unpredictability to the efficacy of prebiotic and probiotic ingredients. Some may suggest for a return to a
biochemical strategy, which eliminates many of the complexities of a biological approach. Consider, for example, the intricacies of product preservation, which poses a significant challenge for live organisms. The industry would certainly prefer to avoid the risk and potential fallout of a non-preserved or inadequately preserved product. Intriguingly, in some ways, this is a ‘full circle’ where the industry is returning to biochemicals and away from biologicals.
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Broad spectrum and precision modification Historically speaking, topical antibiotics have been categorized as being either ‘broad’ or ‘narrow’ spectrum in their activity, which serve as an excellent parallel for approaches to modify the skin microbiome. For example, tetracyclines have been
demonstrated to have broad coverage against bacteria including various Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria as well as Rickettsias and Chlamydias, the latter of which are not particularly amenable to Gram-staining.19 In contrast, polymyxins target only a fairly narrow range of Gram-negative bacteria.20
Bio-
active cosmetic care ingredients intended to modulate the microbial inhabitants of the skin can similarly be parsed into ‘broad’ and ‘narrow’ action. Therefore, it is important to qualify the
scope of action of microbiome modulators being brought to market. This is further compounded by the general desire for such products to be minimally disruptive to the overall microbiota. A confounding issue with the notions of
‘broad spectrum’ and ‘precision’ is the relative persistence of a topically applied material. How long will a certain microbiome modulator linger on the skin? And as such, how continuous is the effect and impact of that activity over an established duration? One particular scientific study that shocked many with its findings examined the length
www.personalcaremagazine.com
May 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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