ANTI-AGEING
Epigenetic renewal counters skin exposome
Melisa DeGroot, Rebecca Held, Joseph Ceccoli – Biocogent
The integumentary system allows us to thrive in a dynamic world. The body’s largest organ, the skin is the first line of defense against harmful environmental factors. However, while protecting from external insults, the skin’s balance can be disrupted, driving unwanted signs of ageing. Exploring the interactions between the skin and the exposome provides valuable insights for the skincare industry as we strive to develop effective interventions for healthy skin ageing.
The exposome The skin exposome refers to the collection of environmental influences affecting the skin throughout a lifetime. This includes extrinsic components: environmental factors (such as sun, pollution, and climate) and lifestyle choices (such as diet, sleep, stress, exercise, and skincare routine), along with intrinsic components: biological aspects (such as genetics, age, and sex)1
(Figure 1). The term
exposome was first coined by Christopher Wild in 2005,2
and was later introduced in the
context of skincare in 2017.3 For at least 2,500 years, humans have been taking protective measures against the exposome. The people of Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome and China implemented protective measures against sun exposure with topical application of olive or castor oils and rice powders, for example. Today, the sun’s ultraviolet rays and the modern-day exposome continue to drive the need for protective skincare measures.
Impacts on skin appearance The exposome is a primary contributor to skin ageing. Extrinsic skin ageing accounts for up to 80% of facial ageing, while genetic effects of ageing are estimated at only 20% (Figure 4A.)4 The sun is a well-studied component
of the exposome that causes significant damage to the skin. Studies indicate that almost 90% of European and North American populations have some degree of photodamage.5
95
found correlations between traffic-related air pollutants and the formation of wrinkles and pigment spots.6
With increased industrialization
globally, 99% of the world’s population lives in regions with poor air quality exceeding World Health Organization (WHO) guidelines.7
Impacts at the cellular level To better understand the impact of the exposome on skin health, it is imperative to consider changes at the cellular level.
Destructive substances trigger a stress response in the skin, activating proinflammatory cytokines and extracellular matrix (ECM)- degrading enzymes such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and elastases. Environmental stressors can also directly
damage the fundamental molecules of the tissue, including the DNA, membranes, and proteins, and generate damaging reactive oxygen species (ROS).8
Furthermore, the
production of vital skin molecules such as collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid is hampered, leading to ECM disorganization and declining skin vitality. When overwhelmed by harmful exposomal
components, cells can enter a state of dysfunction known as senescence, a hallmark of skin ageing.9,10
Senescence can be triggered
in the skin by various exposome-induced stressors, including oxidative stress, DNA damage, chromatin disruption, epigenetic dysregulation, and inflammation.11 Therefore, interventions to address
Signs of photoageing include
premature wrinkles and skin sagging, uneven skin texture, discoloration, and redness. The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin are cumulative, especially on the face and hands. Exposure to air pollution is also associated with skin deterioration, including loss of elasticity, barrier impairment, blemishes, redness, and irritation. For example, one study
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environmental stressors and cellular senescence promise effective skincare for comprehensive exposome protection.
Senescence in the skin Senescent ‘zombie’ cells enter cell cycle arrest, resist apoptosis, and persist in a state
Figure 1: The exposome contributes to skin ageing at multiple levels
of metabolic dysfunction. During senescence, cells secrete many inflammatory factors, such as interleukins and chemokines, as well as growth factors and proteases.12
March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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