SUN PROTECTION O OH OH O Figure 5: Natural astaxanthin chemical structure
detoxify the liver and aid in the health of our bladder. They are a source of epicatechin, quercetin and ursolic acid, all of which are potent cancer-fighting agents.8 Locked inside the seeds of these berries is
a fantastic oil that can dramatically improve the condition of the skin. Cranberry seeds used to be an underutilized byproduct of making cranberry juice (Figure 6). Cranberry seed oil is one of the most unsaturated oils, making it an ideal active vegetable oil. One of the most noted attributes of cranberry seed oil is its balanced ratio of omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids, providing an optimal balance of fatty acids to the skin, combined with high levels in phytosterols, phospholipids, tocotrienols, and tocopherols.9 Thanks to its unique composition,
the Haematococcus active boosts the endogenous capacity of skin to produce antioxidants, through biomimetic pathways. The Haematococcus active protects the skin from oxidative damages induced by external aggressions, such as UV and blue light. The use of active ingredients with a high
antioxidant potential is a crucial strategy, to protect the skin from the oxidative stress, by boosting its natural capacity to produce antioxidants, to finally align with the concerns of the consumers to prevent skin ageing,
skin from UVA+UVB damage by stimulating the physiological ability of skin to produce its own antioxidants to counteract environmental stress exposure. An LDH assay was performed on the skin
explants after active treatment to assess the production of Lactate dehydrogenase by the cells. LDH enzyme is known to be produced by dying cells, and the measurement of the LDH activity is a common method to determine cytotoxicity. Toxicity below 10% is considered acceptable. The control explants (not treated, not
Figure 6: Cranberry seed oil is a fantastic by- product from the seeds of the super fruit and one of the most active oils.
through biomimetic pathways.
Ex vivo evaluation of the antioxidant synthesis stimulation by the Haematococcus active under UV stress
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of the Haematococcus active on human skin antioxidant concentration when subjected to stress with UVA+UVB exposure. This would evaluate its role in protecting the
Concentration in antioxidant (mM) ■ Variation in %, compared to NT-NS-0% (untreated and not stressed) ■ 2,500 2,242* 2,000 1,580* 1,500 1,000 1,000 58% 0,500 0% 0,00 NT-NS-0% UV-0% UV+2% Haematococcus
Figure 7: Effect of the Haematococcus active on the antioxidant concentration under UV stimulation compared to not stress (without UV)
www.personalcaremagazine.com +42% 124%
140% 120% 100% 80% 60% 40% 20% 0%
stressed, without the active) did not exert excessive cytotoxicity as compared to the biopsies treated with Triton. The same results are obtained with the biopsies treated with the active at 2% and 4%: the Haematococcus active does not generate an increase of the LDH production. The Haematococcus active is not cytotoxic, even used at 4%. Thus, the skin biopsies answered to quality control and were deemed suitable for further molecular analysis. To study the effect of the active ingredient
on the oxidative stress induced by UVA+UVB exposure, the skin explants were treated each day for three days with the active at one concentration (2%). Following this, the skin biopsies were exposed to UVA and UVB radiation (except for non-treated and non- stressed explants, NT-NS-0%). After 24 hours of treatment and stress,
the antioxidant activity was assessed, by measurement of the formation of ABTS cations in the samples, representative of the antioxidant capacity of a sample, by assessment of the absorbance at 405nm by spectrophotometry in each sample. The antioxidant concentration was determined using a Trolox™ range. Without the active, and under UV stress,
an increase of the antioxidant concentration occurred, that is higher than the basal antioxidant concentration (to protect the cells against oxidative damages induced by UV stimulation). Thus, the activation of defense mechanism of the skin increased the antioxidant concentration between NT-NS-0% and UV-0% (Figure 6). The Haematococcus active ingredient further increases the level of antioxidant in the skin, much more than without the active (UV-0%) under UV stimulation. The Haematococcus active is able to
March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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Concentration in antioxidant (mM)
Variation in %, compared to not treated (without UV)
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