56 SUN PROTECTION
and serves as the protective layer for internal organs. Skin is also a major candidate and target of oxidative stress. Skin is rich in lipids, proteins, and DNA, all of which are extremely sensitive to the oxidation process, especially induced by UV aggressions.3 The skin tissue is exposed to a variety of damaging species which originate from the outer environment, in the skin itself, and from various endogenous sources. Skin is designed to give both physical and biochemical protection and is equipped with many defense mechanisms. The structure of skin is quite complex,
composed of several layers, each of which plays a specific role and carries out different functions. Each layer is equipped with its own arsenal of defense molecules, and the various systems differ from each other based on the layer’s susceptibility to oxidative stress.4 In defence against oxidative stress, the skin
engages all of four mechanisms: ■ Reparation (via DNA repair enzymes) ■ Prevention (prevention of the production of ROS via chelating agents) ■ Stabilization of biological sites (thanks to the membranes) ■ Antioxidant defense (as an important defense mechanism, where enzymes and scavengers react directly with ROS, preventing them from reaching their biological target)5 When oxidative stress occurs, cells attempt
to counteract the oxidant effects and restore the redox balance by activation or silencing of genes encoding defensive enzymes, transcription factors and structural proteins. Skin is biologically able to naturally produce
antioxidants, to limit the ROS damages generated by UV stress. In the stratum corneum, several cornified envelope proteins, including, loricrin, involucrin, filaggrin and small proline-rich proteins (SPRRs) acts as antioxidants together with low molecular-weight antioxidants.6 Even if an excess of UV rays is responsible
for many skin damages, concurrently, UV is also beneficial for human health by mediating natural synthesis of vitamin D and endorphins in the skin. Therefore, UV rays have complex and mixed effects on human health. The development of active ingredients boosting skin’s natural capacity to produce antioxidants is an excellent solution to allow the skin to benefit from UV light, and at the same time, to protect it from their damage. The use of the sustainable active ingredient
Natura-Tec SeaBerry Blue™, hereafter referred to as the Haematococcus active, with a high antioxidant potential is a crucial strategy to protect the skin from oxidative stress, especially generated by UV, by boosting its natural capacity to produce antioxidants to finally prevent skin ageing through biomimetic pathways and to re-establish a normal reparation biological cycle.
Upcycled infusion of Haematococcus pluvialis extract in cranberry seed oil The Haematococcus active is a unique infusion of Haematococcus pluvialis extract in cranberry seed oil and stabilized
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
Figure 3: Under stressful conditions, such as UV aggressions, the Haematococcus active helps skin to increase its endogenous antioxidant synthesis to biomimetically boost skin protection against UV or blue light
in omega-9 triglycerides. Haematococcus pluvialis is a marine green microalga belonging to the class Haematococcus pluvialis. H. pluvialis (Figure 4) is the richest natural astaxanthin source and the main organism that produces this natural carotenoid (Figure 5). Carotenoids are a widespread family
of organic fat-soluble yellow orange–red pigments made by higher plants and some photosynthetic organisms (algae, fungi, bacteria, etc.). Carotenoids can be divided into: carotenes (containing only carbon and hydrogen); and xanthophylls (made up of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen). Carotenoids found in microalgae are
essential as antioxidants. Humans are not able to synthetize carotenoids. Carotenoids
Epidermis
Dermis Subcutaneous layer
Figure 2: UV light penetration in the human skin
Figure 4: Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae under microscopic view
are vitally important for health by offering protection as a cellular screen against photo-oxidative damage from the sun and other kinds of free radical damage, helping to protect the skin from ageing and can be converted into vitamins necessary for a human body. Carotenoids filter blue light and protect skin from environmental factors including high-energy sources. These carotenoids may be able to block the formation of melanin pathways, decrease cytokines, and increase antioxidants.7 The Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae has been infused and stabilized in cranberry seed oil. Cranberries (Vaccinium macrocarpon) are excellent for the health; in fact, they are considered as a superfood. Including cranberries in the diet will help
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