42 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
TABLE 3: EXAMPLES OF BIO-BASED MASS BALANCE ALCOHOL ETHOXYLATE GRADES (AND SULFATES), THEIR USES AND INCI NAMES Grade
Intermediate for C9-11 alcohol ethoxylate (6EO) C9-11 alcohol ethoxylate (8EO) C12, 13 alcohol ethoxylate (2EO) C11, 13, 15 alcohol ethoxylate (1EO) C11, 13, 15 alcohol ethoxylate (3EO) C12-15 alcohol ethoxylate (3EO)
Used “as is” for skin care, e.g. creams and lotion
Used “as is” for skin and hair care, e.g. facial cleanser and hair mousse
Used as a sulfate, for rinse off /cleansing, e.g. Shampoo and Liquid soap
Used as a sulfate, for rinse off /cleansing, e.g. Shampoo and Liquid soap
Used as a sulfate, for rinse off /cleansing, e.g. Shampoo and Liquid soap
Used as a sulfate, for rinse off /cleansing, e.g. Shampoo and Liquid soap
* Generic INCI names for these end products are shown as Shell Chemicals does not manufacture these and has not applied for INCI names In Table 4, only the Alcohol Sulfate
ingredient was varied between Shell’s C12,13 alcohol sulfate and C12,14 alcohol sulfate. The common alcohol ethoxy sulfate component used was sodium lauryl ethoxy sulfate (SLES)
Surfactant ingredients and EPA Safer Choice, EU Ecolabel Safer Choice is a voluntary EPA programme that certifies cleaning and other products made with ingredients that are safer for people, pets, and the planet without sacrificing performance. Products on the EPA Safer Choice Ingredient List (SCIL) must meet strict criteria on biodegradation, degradation products, and aquatic toxicity. The Safer Choice Criteria for surfactants
combine hazard characteristics and (for example) require that surfactants with higher aquatic toxicity demonstrate a faster rate of biodegradation without degradation to products of concern. Grades that were reviewed by EPA’s Safer
Choice programme and qualify for use in Safer Choice-certified products are: ■ Alcohols: C11 alcohol, C9-11 alcohol, C12-15 alcohol: Listed in SCIL based on their CAS numbers. ■ Alcohol ethoxylates: C9-11 ethoxylate (6EO), C9-11 ethoxylate (8EO), C12,13
ethoxylate (1EO), C11,13,15 ethoxylate (7EO). In Europe the Detergents Ingredients
Database (DID) supports product applications for environmental standards/schemes such as Ecolabel. The alcohol ethoxylate grades are listed in the DID: C12,13 ethoxylate (2EO), C12-15 ethoxylate (3EO), C12-15 ethoxylate (7EO), C9-11 ethoxylate (5EO), C9-11 ethoxylate (6EO), and C9-11 ethoxylate (8EO).
Conclusions Based on a survey across six countries (UK, USA, China, France, Brazil, and Germany) consumers expressed a high level of interest
TABLE 4: PROTOTYPE LIQUID SOAP USED FOR THE FIRST TWO TRIPLETS OF RESULTS SHOWN IN FIGURE 11.
Componet Water:
Alcohol Ethoxy Sulfate Alcohol Sulfate LMMEA
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Sodium Chloride
% w 84.7 5.4 6.2 1.0 1.2 1.5
in bio-based ingredients in personal care products though performance is a primary consideration when purchasing. The consumer research also highlighted the market gap for ingredients produced at large scale that have high functional performance and strong sustainability credentials. This gap is now being addressed in the
industry with the increasing availability of bio-based ingredients that are manufactured on a mass balance basis. These can partially or even entirely replace ingredients based on conventional (fossil) feedstocks and without requiring product reformulation. They are manufactured by chemical producers at scale and with proven manufacturing technologies that have been used for decades to make petrochemical ingredients for personal care products. Taking Shell as an example, the 80/20
linear/branched composition and carbon numbers of the alcohols make them highly suitable for use in shampoo, bodywash and liquid soap products. Bio-based and bio-circular mass balance grades allow personal care product companies to use high performing ingredients such as surfactants that are more sustainable and offer reduced PCFs.
0ppm ■ 200ppm ■ Hardness + Soil ■ 35 20 0ppm ■ 200ppm ■ Hardness + Soil ■
INCI Name C9-11 Alketh-6 C9-11 Alketh-8 Sodium C12-13 Alketh-2 Sulfate* Sodium C11-15 Alketh-1 Sulfate* Sodium C11-15 Alketh-3 Sulfate* Sodium C12-15 Alketh-3 Sulfate*
PC
15 20 10
5
C12,13 alcohol sulfate & C1214-2S
C1214-2S & C1214-2S
Commercial Commercial Hand Soap A Hand Soap B
5
C12,13 alcohol sulfate & C1214-2S
C1214-2S & C1214-2S
Commercial Commercial Hand Soap A Hand Soap B
Figure 11: Comparison of foaming performance (foam rate and foam height) of Shell’s C12,13 alcohol sulfate compared to C12,14 alcohol sulfate (aka sodium lauryl sulfate) using a liquid soap formulation shown in Table 4. Conditions: All tests at 22°C, 3 min test duration and with 58 ppm total surfactant active concentration. Three different tests were run: with deionized water, 200ppm hardness and 200ppm hardness + an oily soil. The hardness + oily soil test gave the lowest foam performance
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
Foam Rate, cm/min
Foam Height, cm
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