FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS


Biomimetic lipid with skin repair effects


Neus Subirats Vicient – Kao Chemicals Europe


Consumers are becoming increasingly interested in beauty secrets and regimens from around the world due to curiosity about how people from other cultures attain and maintain their beauty. The demand for global beauty brands has grown as a result of globalization and increased interest in foreign travel and culture, with the ‘Made In’ stamp now carrying more meaning than ever before. Thus, the beauty industry is developing


brands inspired in each culture for internal consumption while also exporting them globally, with the Japanese beauty industry being one of the stars within this enterprise. Beauty products from Japan have usually been associated with efficacy, high quality and benefit-led features. They are characterized by the simplicity and minimalism of Japanese rituals, powered by extensive research and development. At Kao Chemicals Europe, moved by


our insider knowledge of the Japanese beauty industry, and following our strive for wholehearted satisfaction and enrichment of the lives of people globally while seeking to contribute to the sustainability of society, we wanted to convey the J-Beauty trend to Western lifestyle, offering preventive solutions based on innovative developments and high- quality products with long-term reliability. Within our J-Beauty ingredients, we present


EXCEPARL IS-CE-A (INCI name: Cholesteryl Isostearate). Hereafter known as the Cholesteryl Isostearate ingredient, it is a cholesteryl ester with a skin biomimetic structure and a low melting point that produces minimum irritation of the skin. Thanks to its good moisturising and recovery


Cholesterol esters 5% 10% Cholesterol 15% 50% o 20% Fatty acid


www.personalcaremagazine.com Figure 1: Composition of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum


Ceramides 14 o H Figure 2: Structure of Cholesteryl Isostearate March 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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properties, the biomimetic cholesteryl ester compound plays a crucial role in skin hydration, providing a high-quality ingredient aligned with the Japanese beauty philosophy. In this article, we dive deeper into the characteristics of the Cholesteryl Isostearate ingredient.


The role of a biomimetic cholesteryl ester Epidermal lipids play an important role in skin hydration, forming a permeability barrier that retains moisture and promotes cell growth and differentiation. Figure 1 shows the composition of the lipids in the horny layer of the skin (stratum corneum). Cholesteryl ester compounds are widely distributed in nature, especially in animal


Others (Sphingosine)


tissues. They are found in almost all body systems, including brain cells, and are believed to play an important role in physiological processes. Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum help keep the skin healthy by regulating its water-retaining capacity and barrier function.1 Cholesterol can react with fatty acids to


produce the corresponding cholesteryl esters. The use of these lipids as the oil component in cosmetic emulsions is of interest. The Cholesteryl Isostearate ingredient


supplements the physiological function of the skin through the same mechanism as the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. (Figure 2). It is a 100% active ingredient, very mild, and with a 100% natural content according to the ISO 16128 standard. Thanks to its methyl-branched isostearic


structure, Cholesteryl Isostearate has a melting point between 28-35°C that allows working at lower temperatures compared to typical natural cholesteryl esters with a high melting point.


Water-holding capacity When Cholesteryl Isostearate is used as part of the emollient system in a multilamellar emulsion, the skin surface texture is improved and the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum is restored (Table 1). It stabilizes the lamellar association structure through intermolecular interaction, thus enhancing the bound water content. The healthy skin surface is smooth and soft,


because it is covered by a properly hydrated stratum corneum – a very thin and soft barrier membrane produced by the underlying normal epidermis.


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