FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
Effect on skin elasticity The cosmetic product containing 1% Cholesteryl Isostearate showed a tendency towards improvement of skin elasticity after 28 days, with statistically significant differences (signed rank test for paired samples) in one of the parameters related to skin elasticity (Ur/Uf).
Applications Biomimetic Cholesteryl Isostearate is recommended for the treatment of dry skin. It is suitable for moisturising and anti-ageing creams, lotions, makeup foundations and lipsticks, among others.
Formulation Skin care Rich & Fresh Cream, illustrated in Table 3, is a clear example of efficacy and high quality with benefit-led features that represent the J-Beauty trend. It is a W/O emulsion affording a protective barrier, and intensely hydrates dry skin, producing a very pleasant and light feeling.
Conclusion The introduction of the biomimetic skin lipid developed by Kao Corporation for Skin Care, EXCEPARL IS-CE-A (Cholesteryl Isostearate), marks a significant stride in the beauty industry, particularly in aligning with the J-Beauty trend. Our initiative stems from a deep understanding of the Japanese beauty industry’s efficacy, quality and simplicity –characteristics that resonate globally– and our aim to bring the
TABLE 3: RICH AND FRESH CREAM GUIDELINE FORMULATION (REF. C-323) Ingredients
INCI PENETOL GE-IS
EXCEPARL IS-CE-A KAOPAN SP-O10 YORU SY169215
Isostearyl Glyceryl Ether Cholesteryl Isostearate Sorbitan Oleate KAO Fragrance Glycerin
Dimethicone Squalane
Isopropyl Myristate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Preservative
Magnesium Sulphate
Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annus (sunflower) Seed Oil Deionised Water
J-Beauty trend closer to Western lifestyle. Thanks to its good moisturising and repairing
properties, the cholesteryl ester compound plays a crucial role in skin hydration. With a 100% natural content, mild properties, and a low melting point, it introduces a unique approach to skincare formulations: it is the best partner for taking care of the skin, and is ideal for face, hand and body formulas as well as for other cosmetic products when extra caring is needed. Our incursion into the J-Beauty trend
with the Cholesteryl Isostearate ingredient not only embraces cultural influences but also exemplifies our dedication to providing innovative, high-quality skin care solutions that
47
w/w (%) 2.0 1.0
0.2 0.5
10.0 6.0 4.0 3.0 2.0 0.8 0.7 0.3
Up to 100
align with global beauty aspirations. The multifaceted benefits of this biomimetic
skin lipid make it a valuable addition to formulations seeking to enhance skin hydration, repair, and overall well-being.
References 1. Suzuki T, Iwai H. Formation of Lipid Emulsions and clear gels by Liquid Crystal Emulsification. IFSCC Magazine. Vol.9, No.3/2006
2. Imokawa G, Akasaki S, Kawamata A, Yano S and Takaishi N. Water-retaining function in the stratum corneum and its recovery properties by synthetic pseudoceramides. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1989; 40, 273-285
PC
www.personalcaremagazine.com
March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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