NATURALS


a surface transferrin and, once in contact with oxygen species, it catalyses the formation of intracellular ROS.10 In addition, Fe3+


plays a key role in


UV-induced damage by potentiating ROS generation through the photo-Fenton reaction.11,12


The prevention of iron-induced


intracellular ROS formation by the Brasenia extract is also a rationale for targeting menopause skin. Skin desquamation and menstruation are the main paths for iron excretion. Therefore, during menopause, iron tends to accumulate in the skin and most likely emphasize the cutaneous oxidative damage.13


Conclusion Brasenia schreberi leaves sit at the interface of aqueous and environment-exposed worlds. This habitat is somewhat analogous to that of the skin epidermis although at a more histological level. Preventing excessive trans-epidermal water


loss requires the simultaneous participation of key intra-cellular and extra-cellular components amalgamating during the upward migration and differentiation of keratinocytes. Adequate skin hydration level is mandatory for physiological tasks and cutaneous appearance. In addition to maintaining a water


gradient below the stratum corneum, the barrier function also protects from noxious intrusions. Chemicals and radiation cam harm skin by triggering pro-oxidative reactions. Uncontrolled formation of ROS can rapidly overwhelm the endogenous anti-oxidant defence strategy. Ultimately, this will lead to structural


damage and loss of cellular functions. Furthermore, environmental stress such as radiation and pollution were shown to negatively affect the skin barrier function. Barrier & Beyond is an extract from


Brasenia schreberi that survived for millions of years and witnessed tectonic movements glacier formation and extreme climates. The extract containing the polyphenols gossypin and quercimeritrin has the ability to support the synthesis of the key components of the skin barrier loricrin, involucrin and filaggrin. This was most likely achieved by switching


on the EGR3 transcription factor pathway. Parallel to the increase of these late- differentiation epidermal markers, the gene


CONTROL


Figure 2: Increased expression of components of skin barrier components. In the presence of the Brasenia extract. SC (stratum corneum), SG (stratum granulosum), SB (stratum basale). Nucleated cells are revealed with a blue probe (DAPI) and mainly locate to the SB


expression and synthesis of AQP3, an early- differentiation associated membrane channel protein, were also augmented. The Brasenia extract also demonstrated


that it can support skin in its external barrier roles. The actions of the extract succeeded


BARRIER & BEYOND


to dampen the surge in ROS upon exposure of keratinocytes to UVB and iron as well as pro-inflammatory pathways. Altogether, our results support the use of Barrier & Beyond as an active tool maintaining the global integrity of the skin barrier function.


C 4 3 2 1 0 Control TGF-b


Barrier & Beyond


Figure 3: Expression of AQP3 in human skin reconstructs. Control (A), skin reconstruct incubated with Barrier & Beyond (50 µg/ml) (B). AQP3 gene expression in keratinocytes (qPCR) (C). Stratum basale (SB), stratum spinosum (SS), stratum granulosum (SG), stratum corneum (SC)


www.personalcaremagazine.com March 2024 PERSONAL CARE AQP3 GENE EXPRESSION CONTROL BARRIER & BEYOND


87


PC


AQUAPORIN 3


FILAGGRIN


INVOLUCRIN


LORICRIN


Change vs Control (fold)


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