68 MARINE INGREDIENTS Protien


Phytase-like Thioredoxin Agmatinase FAS1 domain


V-type proton ATPase subunit F


Ferredoxin-NADP(+) reductase


Thioredoxin y SAF


1.072 0.448 0.197 0.167


0.157 0.144


0.124


40S ribosomal protein S4 0.123 Phosphoribulokinase


0.114


Adenosylhomocysteinase 0.110 0.108


Protein fucoxanthin chlorophyll a/c protein


Plant heme peroxidase family


Figure 1: Mechanism of action of the marine ingredient


ecosystem. Furthermore, their presence serves as a vital buffer against the impact of marine pollutants, contributing silently but significantly to the health and equilibrium of the sea’s ecological makeup. By deepening the scientific understanding


of nannoplankton, a myriad of molecules that perform vital functions has been identified in this micro-ecosystem and have apparently also been considered of interest for their bioactive potential applied to cosmetics to restore the skin, especially the signs of eye fatigue (Table 1). Let us see how some of these molecules work to combat the main signs of deterioration of the eye contour. ■ Marine saccharides. All these molecules are considered to contribute to maintaining cell turgor.7


As an example, L-fucose is


able to act in: i) avoiding the degradation of hyaluronic acid,8


and hence maintaining


dermal matrix integrity; ii) MMPs inhibition process,9


Molecule Group Subgroup and, in consequence, preserving the structural molecules of the dermal matrix; and Compound Glucose* Monosaccharides L-fucose Whitening Saccharides Disaccharides Polysaccharides Enzymes


Sulfated polysaccharides Superoxide Dismutase* Thioredoxin*


FSA-1 domain protein* Proteins


Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)


Mycosporine-glycine Asterin-330 Porphyra-334 Shinorine


p-coumaric acid Phenols 4- hydroxybenzaldehyde* Gallic acid* Trehalose Chrysolaminarin


Well-ageing Antioxidant Antioxidant Well-ageing Antioxidant Antioxidant Whitening Antioxidant Antioxidant


Antioxidant/Well-ageing Antioxidant/Well-ageing Antioxidant Whitening Antioxidant Whitening Antioxidant Well-ageing


0.103 4% 4%


5% 4%


5% 6% 7%


Phytase-like Thioredoxin Agmatinase FAS1 domain V-type proton ATPase subunit F Ferredoxin-NADP(+) reductase


16%


Thioredoxin y 40S ribosomal protein S4 Phosphoribulokinase


Adenosylhomocysteinase Protein fucoxanthin chlorophyll a/c protein


Plant heme peroxidase family


Figure 2: Proteomic profile of the marine ingredient. SAF: Spectral abundance factor


additionally, iii) regulating VEGF factors (A and B), preventing fluid accumulation (edema) and thus reducing the formation of eye bags and dark circles.10 ■ Marine proteins constitute functional molecules that work to maintain healthy skin. Inside this group, we find enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, well known for its antioxidant power due to the prevention of ROS formation.11 ■ Marine polyphenols are small bioactive molecules composed of phenolic hydroxyl groups,12


acting as ROS scavengers, such as p-coumaric acid,13


which work in an integrated system but also as whitening agents.14


Skin integrity and moisturizing molecules like


mentioned above are crucial for combating eye signs caused by natural ageing, thinner skin, fat accumulation, and degeneration of epidermal and dermal structures. Applying blue biotechnology, we create a


new 360º eye-contour marine ingredient that possesses an impressive molecular richness,


Cosmetic Efficacy Well-ageing Well-ageing Mechanism Osmoprotection


Hyaluronidase inhibition MMPs inhibition


VEGF A & B regulation Procollagen synthesis


ROS scavenging/enzyme inhibition ROS scavenging


Enhances epidermal cells junctions ROS prevention Protein reduction


Angiogenesis inhibition Prevent lipid peroxidation Prevent lipid peroxidation


MMPs inhibition/ collagen and elastin synthesis Prevent lipid peroxidation ROS scavenging


Tyrosinase inhibition ROS scavenging


Angiogenesis inhibition ROS scavenging


MMPs & IL-6 inhibition/Collagen & elastin synthesis


containing specific compounds to fight against the eye contour problems, as highlighted in Table 1.


A novel 360° eye-contour marine ingredient The mechanism of action of OpenSee Phycoskin®, hereafter known as the marine ingredient, which is aimed at restoring the beauty of the eye contour, is based on the presence of three groups of molecules: saccharides, polyphenols, and proteins. Together these act to achieve a


full cosmetic effect: (i) antioxidant, (ii) moisturizing, (iii) dermal integrity preservation and (iv) whitening, through different mechanisms of action leading to the reduction of dark circles, eye bags, lateral canthal lines, and drooping eyelids (Figure 1). A molecular complex of the marine


ingredient exhibits a multifunctional effect to combat eye contour fatigue signs by working on different mechanisms of action. We now detail the three main groups of molecules


Main Target


Lateral canthal lines/ drooping eyelids All All


Dark circles/eye bags All All All All All All


Dark circles/eye bags All All All All All


Dark circles All


Dark circles/eye bags All All


Table 1: Molecules found in nannoplankton with cosmetic efficacy to fight against signs around the eye. *Molecules found in the marine ingredient PERSONAL CARE March 2024 www.personalcaremagazine.com References


7 8 9


10 20


21 16 11


17 18


37% 4%4% 4%


22,23


13 14


15 16


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112