46 FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
TABLE 1: WATER HOLD PROPERTY IS A MEASURE OF THE TOTAL AMOUNT OF WATER THAT CAN BE ABSORBED PER GRAM OF EMOLLIENT
Oil type Ester Material EXCEPARL IS-CE-A
Cholesteryl Isostearate Isopropyl Myristate
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Hydrocarbon Liquid paraffin Squalane
Thiethylhexanoin Triglyceride
Captylic/Capric Triglyceride
Monoglyceride Glyceryl Stearate Water hold %
>300 14
53 13 14
29 32
175 In contrast, skin surfaces with pathological
lesions present dry and scaly alterations, and the stratum corneum exhibits poor barrier function. The water-retaining capacity of the stratum corneum is quantitatively evaluated by measuring skin conductance.2 Figure 3 illustrates the moisturising efficacy
of Cholesteryl Isostearate at two concentration levels compared to a W/O emulsion (blank) without the compound, applying the same amount to the respective skin areas and conducting the measurements at one and two days of application. The skin reaction, including scaling, was assessed three days after acetone/ether treatment under the same conditions as the conductance measurements. Scaling was scored as follows: 0 = no scaling, 1 = slight scaling, 2 = moderate scaling, and 3 = marked scaling. Topical applications of 0.3-1% Cholesteryl
Isostearate in a W/O cream to acetone/ether induced dry skin produced significant recovery of the water-retaining properties, associated with improvement in scaling, versus the results obtained with the base cream.
Repairing effect The repairing effect of the Cholesteryl Isostearate ingredient in a cosmetic formula was assessed by the effect upon transepidermal water loss and skin elasticity of a cosmetic product containing 1% Cholesteryl Isostearate versus placebo. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of the
products was assessed with a Tewameter device at different experimental times, before and after using the test products. The results were expressed in grams of evaporated water per
0% -5%
-10% -15%
-18% *
-20% *Significant differences (ANOVA-1way: p<0.05 Figure 4: Effect on transepidermal water loss PERSONAL CARE March 2024 Figure 5: Effect on skin elasticity
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25 20 15 10 5 0
Before damage
Day 0
Higher moisture retention
Cream (blank) ■ Cream (0.3%) ■ Cream (1%) ■ 3 2 1
Lower skin damage
0
Day 1
Day 2
Before damage
Day 0
Day 1
Day 2
Figure 3: Recovery of skin moisture and damage after artificial exposure using acetone/ether and application of W/O cream containing Cholesteryl Isostearate cream (blank): 2% Isosterayl Glyceryl Ether, 3% Petrolatum, 5% Squalane and 10% Octyl-Dodecyl Myristate
TABLE 2: TEST COMPOSITION OF O/W EMULSIONS WITH AND WITHOUT CHOLESTERYL ISOSTEARATE Placebo 5% 4% 5% 0
1%
Emulsifier system Consistency factor Emollient system Active Others Water
Polysorbate-60 + Sorbitan Monooleate Cetearyl Alcohol
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride Cholesteryl Iostearate Preservative
Deionized water square metre of surface and per hour (g/m2 /h).
The principle underlying measurement is based on Fick’s diffusion law. The determination of vapour flow in the air indirectly measures flow through the skin: a digital display continuously reflects the quantity of evaporated water expressed in g/m2
/h. Skin elasticity was assessed by measuring
the extensibility and elasticity of the skin with a Cutometer, before and after treatment. Skin elasticity is assessed by measuring
its capacity to return to its initial state after undergoing deformation under partial vacuum. The results are expressed as the ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (Ur/Uf). The greater the percentage recovery versus deformation, the better. The measurements were made on the
Placebo ■ 1% EXCEPARL IS-CE-A ■ -3%
4% 3% 2% 1% 0%
0.5% up to 100%
5% 4% 5% 1%
0.5% up to 100%
placebo control and treated areas before and after 24 hours (single application), and 14 and 28 days after application of the products. The cosmetic products tested were O/W emulsions with and without Cholesteryl Isostearate, a biomimetic skin lipid (Table 2). This study was conducted by Eurofins Product Testing, Cosmetics & Personal Care Spain, S.L.U.
Effect on transepidermal water loss (TEWL) The cosmetic product containing 1% Cholesteryl Isostearate significantly improved skin barrier function up to 24 hours after a first single application (signed rank test for paired samples).
The positive effect of Cholesteryl Isostearate on skin barrier function was also observed after 14 and 28 days of application.
Placebo ■ 1% EXCEPARL IS-CE-A ■
28 days *Significant differences (ANOVA-1way: p<0.05
% TEWL readings-Baseline
Skin Conductance (µΩ-1)
% readings-Baseline
Scaling rash score
*
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