ANTI-POLLUTION The biological impact of exposome
exposure can be studied on specialized cells such as sebocytes by the quantification of the sebum production. In this study, the production of lipids by sebocytes isolated from different ethnic skin (African and Caucasian) was analyzed by Nile red staining (Figure 2). The production of lipids was increased
by 93%*** with cortisol stress (mimicking psychological stress, data not shown), 41%*** with glucose (mimicking unhealthy diet), 30%*** after UV irradiation (data not shown) and 24%*** after the application of PM10 (particulate matter < 10 µm) on human primary African sebocytes. The application of the CE prevented and
decreased lipid synthesis induced by both external and internal stresses. Similar effects were obtained in human primary Caucasian sebocytes. Hyperpigmentation is a consequence of
acne vulgaris. In response to the infection by C. acnes, an increase of inflammation was observed in the epidermis with the release of pro inflammatory cytokines. In consequence of this inflammation, cutaneous cells release pro-pigmentary factors which stimulate melanocytes and so the production of melanin with the apparition of pigmented spots on the face. This process is called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). In our study, CE can prevent this inflammation induced by C. acnes (limiting the release of IL1a quantified by ELISA, data not shown) and the extract act also directly against virulence factors such as lipase produced by the bacteria C. acnes (data not shown). In addition, the CE prevented the
consequence of acne such as the apparition in pigmented spots due to PIH. Indeed, the application of C. acnes on epidermis induced an overexpression of melanin quantified by Fontana Masson on ethnic skins (reconstructed and ex vivo skins). The treatment with CE at 1% reduced the
overexpression of melanin due to the infection by C. acnes by 22%*** on African ex vivo skin, 36%*** on Caucasian ex vivo skin and 25% on Asian reconstructed pigmented epidermis (Figure 3).
An efficient barrier function is the main CONTROL
100 µg/mL
C.acnes A
63 100 µg/mL
C.acnes 15 CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA
B
Figure 3: Staining of melanin pigments by Fontana Masson on African Skin (A) and Caucasian skin (B). Objective 20x
protection factor to prevent the impact of external exposome such as UV, pollution, microorganism infection. The barrier function depends upon the presence of a unique mixture of lipids in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum so an increase of total lipids (detected by Nile red staining) can reinforce this function. The application of Chamomilla extract on
ethnic ex vivo skins (Caucasian, African and Asian) allowed to observe a reinforcement of skin barrier. Indeed, we quantified an increase of the neutral lipids existing in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum providing a permeability barrier to prevent water loss (Figure 4). After the validation of bioinformatic
prediction with in vitro results, two independent clinical studies were performed on Asian and Caucasian volunteers to confirm
results obtained in vitro. First, after three and four weeks of application with 1% CE containing cream a significant decrease of sebum at skin surface has been observed compared to placebo cream (data not shown). In addition, effect on skin pores
(circumference, area, number) was assessed on the cheek area where pores are obvious at D0 (beginning of the study) and at D28 (end of the study after 28 days of applications). The number of pores and their size
visibly decreased after the application of CE. Moreover, pictures of post acne marks were taken to observe the positive impact of chamomile extract on the face at different days after the cream application (Figure 5). Tivi index value of red acne spot
determined about colour pictures decreased significantly (-78%*) compared to the placebo side at D28 (Figure 6). Indeed, 60% of Asian
CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA
Figure 4: Detection of neutral lipids by Nile red staining on skin (Nuclei appear in blue). Objective 20X
www.personalcaremagazine.com March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
ASIAN SKIN
CAUCASIAN SKIN
AFRICAN SKIN
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