52 ANTI-POLLUTION
nature-inspired ingredients in the development of anti-pollution products.
Botanical marvels Green brands are turning to botanical extracts and plant-derived ingredients known for their natural detoxifying properties. Moringa, a plant known for its antioxidant-rich leaves, is making its way into anti-pollution formulations. Purisoft LS 9726, a BASF anti-pollution peptide derived from Moringa seeds, has undergone clinical validation demonstrating its efficacy in shielding the skin from pollution. This peptide not only purifies the skin but also helps to improve skin complexion, resulting in a vibrant and healthy glow.
Upcycled elegance Another noteworthy approach is using upcycled ingredients, minimizing waste, and maximizing the potential of by-products. Rice bran, for example, is a common by-product that comes from rice processing. Extracts from upcycled rice bran help to reduce food waste while also providing anti-pollution benefits, making them a sustainable option for skincare formulations. Clariant’s Active Ingredient, Eosidin, protects skin from the effects of indoor pollution while having a low environmental impact.
Algae’s vital role Algae, a powerhouse of nutrients and a resilient aquatic plant, is gaining prominence in anti- pollution skincare. Algae extracts derived from sustainable sources are high in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals, acting as a natural defence against environmental stressors. The sustainable cultivation of algae is consistent with the eco-friendly skincare ethos.
Eco-friendly manufacturing processes Beyond ingredient choices, the sustainability trend extends to the manufacturing processes. Companies are adopting environmentally friendly production methods to reduce energy consumption and minimize water usage. This dedication to green practices ensures that the product’s entire lifecycle reflects a commitment to the planet.
Packaging innovation The sustainability journey is incomplete without addressing packaging concerns. Brands are increasingly choosing recyclable and biodegradable packaging materials to reduce their products’ environmental impact. Some are even looking into refillable packaging options to reduce waste even further. One such example is the vegan packaging range from Lys Packaging.
Associated claims and clinical testing The three main goals of personal care products with anti-pollution claims are detoxification (cleaning), rebalancing, and protection. For a better understanding, these include: ■ Skin detox with a curative action. Cleansing, detoxifying, exfoliating, purifying, and oxygenizing. ■ Rebalance the skin with a curative action. Soothing, moisturizing, nourishing, pH-regulator, sebo-regulator, complexion, microcirculation, anti-ageing, and anti-sagging.
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
■ Protect and isolate the skin with preventive action. Anti-UV, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, anti-particles, barrier integrity, anti- inflammatory, and anti-spot. Anti-pollution tests are not currently
standardized, regulated, or reproducible internationally, and there is no consensus on the best pollution biomarkers to use when assessing the efficacy of anti-pollution products. However, to distinguish products in a
crowded and fiercely competitive market and gain a competitive edge in front of customers, in vitro clinical test data would be useful. Some of these techniques include: ■ MTT cell viability assay. To demonstrate the protective effect of cosmetic actives against the reduction of cell viability induced by pollutants. The assay utilizes a yellow tetrazolium salt, MTT (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol- 2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide), which is converted into purple formazan crystals by viable cells with active mitochondria. The greater the cell viability in the presence of an anti-pollution product, the greater its potential efficacy in protecting skin cells from the damaging effects of environmental pollutants. ■ MicroRNA expression profiles. To investigate the epigenetic modulation of skin cells after exposure to various pollutants to better understand the mechanism of environmental toxicity. This test is a useful tool for assessing the complex molecular changes that occur in skin cells as a result of environmental exposure. Understanding epigenetic modulation via microRNA expression profiles aids in the development of targeted strategies for skin protection and anti-pollution formulations in the skincare industry. ■ Inductively coupled plasma mass
spectrometry (ICPMS): Detection and quantification of metal traces in skin samples. The principle behind this method is to atomize and ionize the metal elements in the skin sample using inductively coupled plasma, a high-temperature ionized gas. The resulting ions are then introduced into a mass spectrometer and separated based on their mass-to-charge ratio. ■ Peroxidized squalene assay. To measure the amount of oxidized squalene in a sample. Squalene is a naturally occurring compound
found in human sebum and some skincare products, and its oxidation can indicate exposure to environmental factors such as pollution. The basic idea behind this assay is to determine the degree of peroxidation, which refers to the oxidative degradation of squalene molecules.
Conclusion Anti-pollution skincare and cosmetic products have grown significantly in the last few years due to the declining quality of the world’s air and the increasing public awareness of the harmful effects of various environmental contaminants on the skin. Both traditional (rice bran, coffee beans,
kaolin and activated charcoal) and novel (myrtle leaf and white tea) anti-pollution ingredients for personal care are in high demand and are expected to grow at a rapid 5.5% annual rate by 2027. Microbiome-based formulations are the main
force behind most of the innovations. Innovative ingredients like natural or organic ingredients and certifications from pertinent organizations related to fighting pollution will advance along with the anti-pollution sector.
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