SUN CARE
High molecular weight inulin for sun protection
Patrick Gonry – Gobiotics
The damaging effect of sunlight on our skin is well-known to everyone. Skin lipids and proteins are oxidized, which leads to an impaired skin barrier. An avalanche of free radicals is released, causing mass destruction of skin cells and a disruption of the biological pathways in the skin. UV light and especially UVA even reaches the well-hidden dermis and causes permanent damage to the fundaments of our skin: collagen and elastin. When sunlight can cause such damage so deep in our skin, what is the damage on top of the skin, the home of the skin microbiota? This article describes the effect of sunlight on the members of the skin microbiota. The influence of a SPF30 sun cream is demonstrated and the supporting effect of a high molecular weight prebiotic, preBIULIN® AGA is proven with in vivo studies.
The skin microbiota The community of microorganisms, called the skin microbiota, is the upper layer of our skin. It is the only layer fully exposed to the environment. They are the final frontier of our skin. This microbial layer protects and regulates in so many ways the underlying layers such as the epidermis and even the dermis. The members of this microbial community
are bacteria such as Cutibacteria, Staphylococci, Micrococci, Corynebacteria, Brevibacteria and Streptococci, as well as fungi such as Malassezia species. All these members cooperate to protect themselves from the environment and to protect the different layers of the skin. The role of the skin microbiota in sun care
is ignored. All sun care products focus solely on the protection of skin cells. However,
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the skin microbiota is an indispensable ally, especially during UV exposure. The microbial layer provides endless and crucial support to the epidermis and dermis as proven by this far- from-complete summary below. 1. The Malassezia furfur produces
pityriacitrin, which absorbs UVB light. 2. The skin microbiota modulates the
immune response. This is particularly crucial as immune suppression is induced by UV light. UV suppression is linked to UV-induced carcinogenesis.1 3. Besides reducing the risk for UV-induced
carcinogenesis, the skin microbiota and in particular one S. epidermidis strain produces
Skin bacteria before UV exposure ■ Skin fungi before UV exposure ■ Skin bacteria after UV exposure ■ Skin fungi after UV exposure ■
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
Time in sun: 60 min Time in sun: 30 min Time in sun: 20 min Time in sun: 15 min Figure 1: The viability of the skin microbiota under different exposure times to sunlight
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6-N-hydroxyaminopurine that prevents and inhibits the formation of skin tumours. This molecule even suppresses the existing tumours.2 4. An extra layer of protection is added by
the C. acnes that produces Rox P, a powerful antioxidant that protects and improves the viability of keratinocytes.3 5. Micrococcus luteus repairs the DNA of UV-
damaged keratinocytes. 6. The skin microbiota supports epidermal
differentiation and skin repair after sun damage. 7. Different gene expressions of the
keratinocytes are regulated by the skin microbiota to improve the functioning of the skin. Especially gene expressions involved in the production of antimicrobial peptides. This is particularly crucial as the sun damages the skin barrier. An impaired skin barrier results in a higher invasion of microorganisms into the epidermis. 8. Lysophosphatidic acid is secreted by the
skin microbiota. This precious molecule soothes the skin and helps to rebuild the damaged epidermis. 9. As collagen I and III are upregulated by
C. acnes, the damage caused by UVA on the dermis can be repaired more efficiently. 10. The skin microbiota hydrates the
skin. From internal studies, it was found that microbial hydration is at least as powerful as hyaluronic acid 1.6 MDa.
March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
Relative abundance of bacteria or fungi
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