16 INTERVIEW Tim Probert – Editor, Personal Care Global
KinShen Chan is a principal analyst of beauty and personal Care at Mintel in Singapore. In conversation with editor Tim Probert, KinShen gives his considerable insight on a wide range of current and possible future global trends
Tim Probert (TP): Mintel’s Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends report identifies ‘NeuroGlow’, ‘Beaut-AI’, ‘Sophisticated Simplicity’ as being big this year. What are these trends? KinShen Chan (KSC): ‘Sophisticated Simplicity’ is tied in with the cost of living crisis and how consumers define value. As consumers become more learned about products, they have started to realise that they need to look beyond just ingredients. Mintel’s data shows 93% of
Indonesian female consumers think that it’s worth taking the time to compare products to find the best deal. They want to know that products work and how they work. What’s the mechanism? ‘NeuroGlow’ is about
consumers prioritising wellness and an acceleration of the mind- body connection trend. We see interesting research to do with sleep and blood vessels. We see brands trying to communicate everyday stresses and tie them back to skincare and beauty. ‘Beaut-AI’ is about artificial
intelligence revolutionizing the beauty industry by making it more personalized, efficient and effective. It could really help in terms of product development and promoting personalised solutions, especially in terms of diagnostics.
TP: When you talk about value, do you mean cheap or do you mean other factors, like multifunctionality perhaps? KSC: We are seeing a body of evidence that consumers see value
as not just price but also efficacy. This is not just that the product works but telling consumers how it works. A couple of years ago, there was a trend for highlighting a hero ingredient on the packaging. Niacinamide, for example. We’re seeing more and more
brands go a step further by trying to communicate how niacinamide helps the skin barrier function. We are also seeing brands
explaining how transepidermal water loss affects skin moisture and how products can improve skin condition in-vivo across 28 days and so on. So value is not just about price.
As part of the value proposition, brands need to bring efficacy to the game and be able to visualize and articulate it effectively.
TP: Is it just about brand communication or do they also need to make their products better? KSC: It’s a little of both. One thing with the beauty industry is that functional ingredients don’t really change so much compared to, say, 20 or 30 years ago. Again, using niacinamide as
an example, that has been used since the 1990s, but the way it has been used and communicated has changed. Niacinamide started out as
more of an anti-ageing ingredient. In recent years, it’s evolved into protecting the skin barrier, providing skin brightening benefit and so on. It’s like the wonder kid in skincare. The challenge brands faced is
INTERVIEW
Crystal ball gazing for
how to make niacinamide more interesting and fresh, and to enhance the value proposition to the consumer. We’re seeing evidence
that brands are doing that technically as well. Recently, we saw Olay launch Olay Super Serum, where they talk about putting niacinamide in a low pH formulation.
That claimed to ‘supercharge’ niacinamide and help reduce skin micro-inflammation and chaosity.
TP: The cosmetic ingredient trends that go viral on social media tend to be the usual
beauty trends
suspects like niacinamide, retinol, vitamin C, salicylic acid and so on. Do you ever see particular ingredients made by a particular ingredient supplier going viral? KSC: Not so much but the Korean cosmetics brand Cosrx had a viral TikTok video with regards to its serum with a snail mucin ingredient. People were really drawn to it.
TP: Peptides are very popular at the moment. Are you seeing this as a trend that will continue? Is the heightened interest being driven by science or ‘flavour of the month’ popularity? KSC: Peptides are effective. Some say they may be too effective for people with sensitive skin. In recent years, we have seen
the rise of polypeptides that have a longer amino acid chain, so they don’t go so deep into the skin, and therefore are more suitable for sensitive skin consumers. Peptides are a workhorse of
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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