IN-COSMETICS GLOBAL PREVIEW


over the past years. Not surprisingly, the palm oil supply chain is no exception but being a long and complex one there is still a lot to be achieved. Every single cosmetic company that


uses oil palm products has an opportunity and a responsibility to generate demand for sustainable production. When souring RSPO certified material, companies can: contribute to ending deforestation and protecting biodiversity; reduce GHG emissions; ensure labour rights and, indigenous peoples and community rights are upheld; and improve livelihoods for thousands of farmers.


Ruby Bio (1B64) is introducing a brand-new glycolipid portfolio based on an innovative fermentation platform that leverages proprietary yeast to convert sugar or upcycle waste streams into high-performing, multifunctional ingredients. Ruby GL-EM1 is an emulsifier that creates small and uniform droplet sizes without foaming, delivering a silky and luxurious skin- feel.


The product is a superior wetting agent


that expands formulation thermostability and ensures that minerals stay suspended, protecting the integrity of your SPF in mineral sunscreen and maintaining the quality of your pigments in colour cosmetics. Its newest product, Ruby GL-SF1, is a


powerful solubilizer over a wide range of fragrances at reduced dosing compared to market leading technology. This foaming ingredient has performance comparable to ethoxylates (polysorbates) but better than rhamnolipids and APGs.


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Salnova Nutritec & Ingredients (1S158) is taking the wraps off Transdermal EGF 2.0. Inclusion of transdermal epidermal growth factor (T-EGF) sets a new benchmark for innovation in skincare formulations. The ability of EGF to stimulate cell proliferation and differentiation, promoting natural skin regeneration, is revived by the effective transdermal activity of T-EGF. Innovation is a continuous process and


therefore, since the launch last year at in- cosmetics Global, T-EGF 2.0 features a trio of upgrades. Firstly, enhanced stability: T-EGF’s improved stability at room temperature for 6 months unaltered and 2-8°C for one year. This upgrade ensures simplified handling, reduced waste, and enhanced product integrity. Secondly, an eco-friendly production


process. The production of T-EGF is becoming completely free of animal derivatives. Leveraging benefits from precision fermentation, we enable a sustainable and high-throughput production approach for T-EGF. Thirdly, proven efficacy as an after-sun repair


agent: with a new series of third-party efficacy tests, T-EGF is clearly shown to be effective in repairing skin from UV damage.


Sappi (1X100) will be showcasing its fibrillated cellulose ingredient, branded as Valida. Produced from PEFC-certified, sustainably sourced cellulose, Valida delivers multiple functionalities to cosmetic products and can be used as an alternative to synthetic polymers and potential microplastics by stabilising cosmetic formulations, including emulsions, while having minimal impact on the viscosity. As a multifunctional ingredient, Valida can


significantly enhance sensorial properties, provide improved foaming of natural surfactants and offer SPF-boosting to sunscreens. Valida is fully biodegradable in marine under TUV OK certification (pending OECD 301) and has a naturality of 0.99 according to ISO 16128.


Ruby Bio (1B64)


Safic-Alcan (1P30) will introduce #BeautyProof, its brand-new vision that encapsulates its dedication to evidence-based ingredients, ensuring products are not only effective and wisely sourced but also formulated in the most potent way. Visitors can be inspired by the latest


formulations designed by its six, state-of-the- art laboratories and discover ‘Proof Lab’, where it will live-showcase the performance of its innovative portfolio in a way never seen before. Visitors can also harness the precision


of artificial intelligence, as it will be offering personalized facial diagnostics for a tailor-made selection of active ingredients, guaranteeing products that are not only effective but also tailored to individual needs.


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Seiwa Kasei (2D86) has a long history of researching and manufacturing hydrolyzed protein. To this day, it has continued to develop and provide high-quality hydrolyzed protein with minimal of various impurities by developing unique cosmetic ingredients with marketing claims and relevant data. Recent offerings include plant-derived


‘Botanical Keratin’ (Promois WJ-SP) and ‘Botanical Silk’ (Promois WR-SP) as alternative raw materials for keratin and silk, which have been evaluated as effective cosmetic raw materials. It also offers hydrolyzed proteins developed from a variety of other raw materials such as pea, rice, soy, wheat, sesame, pearl, silk, keratin, collagen and milk.


Sequential (1W79) has a team of award-winning scientists with the aim of understanding the impact of the microbiome on the host (humans) and how the host impacts the microbiome in order to fully characterise human health. It offers an expansive platform to conduct research on personal care products through


microbiome testing, biophysical assessments, and offers full recruitment services for studies. It is keen to publish its findings with its partners to increase the literature within this space. At present, it says, its database of over 20,000 human microbiome samples is one of the most sophisticated within the industry and is growing rapidly.


Stockmeier (1M130) will present its novel Circular Beauty formulation concept, which refers to sustainable and environmentally friendly beauty practices. It is about using products and processes that conserve natural resources and minimise the ecological footprint. Circular beauty includes supplying products


made from circular material streams. In other words, manufactured with fully renewable, recyclable, and biodegradable resources which can be returned to the biosphere. Industrial symbiosis strategy where waste or by-products of one industry become the raw materials for cosmetics is the basis for Circular Stockmeier.


Straticell (1T67) will unveil StratiCELL-BOX, a cost-optimized offer of multiple in vitro efficacy assays combined to accelerate the biological screening of new dermo-cosmetic actives. In the first ‘Skin-Ageing-BOX’ and ‘Pollution-&- Light-Damage-BOX’, Straticell has carefully selected conventional in vitro assays for their convergence towards anti-ageing or photo- protective claims, respectively. Both StratiCELL-BOX are fully adapted


to screen non-formulated compounds, systematically tested at two non-cytotoxic dilutions (preliminary determination included). A precise working time optimization allows to save resources and therefore to reduce unit costs, making each combination the ideal tool for a fast screening of multiple raw ingredients. The StratiCELL-BOX is therefore the best


testing strategy to facilitate and accelerate the search for innovative active molecules in a fast- growing market.


Straticell (1T67)


The Upcycled Beauty Company and its distribution partner in France Comercial Quimica Massó (E180) will host a collaborative networking opportunity on Wednesday 17 April at 16:00. This event will showcase upcycled ingredients, brands and packaging highlighted in the 2024 Zero-Waste Beauty Report, providing attendees with a hands-


March 2024 PERSONAL CARE


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