ANTI-POLLUTION
Science of clear skin with high-tech chamomile
Christophe Capallere, Justine Cotton, Yolene Ferreira, Li Zhang, Isabelle Imbert - Ashland
The quest for perfect, clear, flawless skin has always been at the top of concerns for generations of young women. That is even more true for Gen Z and millennials with the influence of social media. One growing trend on TikTok is the use of non-surgical aesthetic procedures such as micro-botox for blemish-free skin.4 Inspired by these new aesthetic
techniques, Perfectyl™ biofunctional, a high-tech chamomile extract (hereafter, the CE) developed using Ashland’s patented and proprietary Zeta Fraction™ technology, has been designed to clarify and smooth skin flaws (oiliness, pores, hyperpigmentation) impacted by environmental and lifestyle stresses. CE research has shown the impact of
exposome stress on three skin ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) and four phototypes. The concept of exposome has been widely evocated in cosmetics and several exposome factors such as pollution, sun, poor diet, psychological stress, are known to affect skin barrier, sebaceous glands, innate immunity, cutaneous microbiota and is associated with the severity of blemishes such as acne or skin oiliness.1 The CE research, driven by AI, predicted the modulation of GABA (γ-aminobutyric acid) signaling pathway for the control of skin blemishes. Recent studies show that GABA is associated with skin pigmentation, remodeling, and muscle relaxation. GABA amino acid is a neurotransmitter described to be the new natural cosmetic alternative solution to botox2 as facial line expression relaxer.3
Gen Z demand for blemish-free skin with aesthetic techniques The Gen Z trend for micro-botox, also known as baby botox, involves a more subtle and targeted approach to facial rejuvenation. Unlike traditional treatments that aim to paralyze facial muscles for a smoother appearance, this micro technique involves injecting smaller amounts in specific areas of the skin to achieve a more natural look. This trend reflects a desire for a more
nuanced and personalized approach to skincare, emphasizing prevention and enhancement rather than drastic transformations. The CE aligns with this trend by focusing on the GABA pathway. GABA amino acid is a neurotransmitter described to be the new natural cosmetic alternative solution to botox as a facial line expression relaxer.2,3 This approach aims to provide a refined and balanced effect, addressing skin flaws
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without the need for more invasive procedures. In essence, the CE responds to the evolving preferences of consumers, offering a sophisticated cosmetic solution inspired by Gen Z’s inclination for subtle and individualized skincare interventions. Th CE leverages this consumer trend
powered by influencers worldwide while aligning with the growing demand for effective yet minimally invasive skincare solutions. On TikTok and other social media, billions of views are dedicated to this non-surgical aesthetic treatment to tighten pores, reduce sebum production, and to smooth flawless skin while providing a more natural-looking line reduction.2-5
Wrinkle relaxers are among
the hottest trends for the young generation as a preventative mode and it is now starting for women in their early twenties.
Chamomile: magical herb with ancestral usage The chamomile species used to create the CE is German chamomile (Chamomilla recutita (Matricaria) Flower/Leaf). Chamomile has a rich ancestral history of medicinal and skincare use. Ancient civilizations, including the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans valued chamomile for its therapeutic properties. It was commonly used for its calming effects, aiding in relaxation, and
promoting better sleep. Chamomile was traditionally employed
to soothe skin irritations and treat various dermatological conditions; its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties made it a popular remedy for conditions like eczema, dermatitis, and sunburn. Additionally, chamomile was utilized to enhance overall skin health, contributing to a radiant complexion. The herb’s gentle nature, versatility and
positive image have allowed it to maintain its status as a skincare fundamental throughout history, transcending generations, and cultures. In contemporary times, chamomile continues to be a sought-after ingredient in cosmetic formulations, one of the favourites of today’s consumers combining tradition with modern skincare innovations.
Zeta Fraction™ process for capturing purest and richest chamomile fraction Zeta Fraction technology is a solvent-free process patented and proprietary to Ashland to capture the purest and richest fraction from German chamomile. This innovative method utilizes advanced techniques to isolate specific bioactive compounds without the need for water and traditional solvents. During the Zeta Fraction process, chamomile flowers and leaves components are carefully
March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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