50 ANTI-POLLUTION
Making sense of the anti-pollution segment
Shivani Bisht – ChemBizR
Particulate matter, ozone, volatile organic compounds, nitrogen- and sulfur-oxides, are examples of pollutants that enter the skin’s pores and cause skin irritation, inflammation, oxygen deprivation, clogging of pores, impairment of the skin barrier, and dryness. ‘Anti-pollution’ is one of the newest
buzzwords in the personal care and cosmetics industries, and companies are racing to market masks, sprays, and creams that promise to shield our skin and hair from pollution-related damage. It also contributes to oxidative stress by producing quinones, which interact with nanoparticles in the skin, depleting its innate antioxidant defences, both enzymatic and non- enzymatic.
When these pollutants are exposed to the
skin repeatedly and frequently, they can cause premature ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne, allergies, and skin cancer. Using anti-pollution ingredients effectively
necessitates a deep comprehension of the mechanisms through which they counteract the damaging effects of various environmental aggressors on different skin types. Since pollution causes premature skin ageing, manufacturers of anti-pollution products have always focused only on treating the skin’s surface. Nevertheless, in recent years, there has been a push toward the development of novel solutions that could reach deeper dermal layers and the cellular level. About 2% of the active ingredients in
personal care products are anti-pollution ingredients. Some examples of anti-pollution ingredients with one or more functionalities include Tremella fuciformis extract, PEG 20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Crypthecodinium cohnii extract, and activated charcoal. These ingredients have the ability to
remove/ control the deposition or penetration of pollutants, reduce inflammation, have antioxidant properties, chelate metals, and regulate pathways involved in the synthesis of melanin. Combining the chemistries of more than two such ingredients within a single product range can further improve these qualities.
Formulating anti-pollution products It is difficult to design ‘one size fits all’ products that will ‘fit’ all consumers globally because of variances in pollution levels and types, variations in skin types, and differences in
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
benefit expectations among consumers worldwide. However, by comprehending the nature of contaminants and the mechanism by which they damage the skin, general principles for developing new products can be established. The formulation process involves selecting
potent ingredients that offer multifaceted protection. Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E play a crucial role in neutralizing free radicals generated by pollution, preventing oxidative stress and premature ageing. Additionally, botanical extracts like
green tea, moringa, and algae are gaining prominence for their detoxifying and protective properties. Formulators often integrate ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier, enhance hydration, and counteract inflammation. Furthermore, the inclusion of anti-UV agents helps guard against sun- induced damage, complementing the overall protective profile. Delivering anti-pollution skincare should
aim to have a gentle cleansing action to get rid of the thick layer of dirt caused by air pollution, while also incorporating high antioxidant levels into the overall skincare product. Adding
a lot of sebum to skin care products is another way to balance the skin’s oil production. Functionality for barrier repair is also
important to consider since skin exposed to pollution has low cholesterol levels. Last but not least, a lot of attention needs to be paid to the products’ pH levels to ensure that they fall within the range that is appropriate for normal, healthy skin, which is between 4 and 6.5.
Active ingredients and related mechanisms Although skin care products use almost 50% of the anti-pollution ingredients on the market, their use in sun protection, colour cosmetics, and hair care products has increased dramatically in recent years. Prominent end- uses for reducing pollution include balancing toners, deep cleaning products that do not alter the pH balance of the skin, and natural oil-based cleansers. Due to the greater demand, there is some competition amongst ingredient manufacturers in APAC, but none at all in North America or Europe. The anti-pollution trend in skincare uses a
variety of ingredients, including exfoliants like rice bran and coffee beans, as well as solid
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