18 INTERVIEW
whole mind-body connection which ties in with our ‘Neuro- Glow’ trend. To give you an example,
Amorepacific came out with an ingestible called GABA 365 formulated using fermented L-glutamate acid, which claims to increase the amount of GABA (gamma-amino butyric acid) to help consumers to sleep better. GABA is a neurotransmitter
found inside our body that helps us to relax. Another example is Shiseido’s
partnership with Tsumura and Kagome announced last September. Kagome is a very popular Japanese fruit juice company and Tsumura is a traditional Japanese medicine company. I hypothesize this partnership will see innovation in the beauty- from-within drinks category and is a space to watch.
TP: From a regulatory point of view, you’re moving from cosmetics into something else. Could this be an issue with claims? KSC: With ingestibles, regulatory certainly seems to be a challenge. However, we are also seeing advances in this space. In the earlier mentioned
example from Amorepacific, the fermented L-glutamic acid is individually recognized as a functional ingredient that can improve sleep quality by the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety of Korea.
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
“For skincare companies, there is a challenge to convince those consumers about the value of skincare. We are seeing some use aesthetic clinic type ingredients to boost that efficacy
conversation ” KinShen Chan, Principal Analyst of Beauty and Personal Care, Mintel
TP: We’ve talked a lot about skincare but what trends are you seeing in hair care right now? KSC: The big one globally is scalp care and scalp care products. Interest in scalp health remains high.
We are seeing a lot of
ingredients traditionally used in skincare like niacinamide that have been brought into hair care to support scalp health.
TP: What aspects of the skin microbiome are beauty and personal care brands exploring, and how is this influencing research and/or product development? KSC: Sleep deprivation and other lifestyle products. Major beauty companies like Procter & Gamble and LVMH have done studies on sleep deprivation and how it impacts the skin barrier. They’re trying to find out how
lifestyle factors and correlate to skin health. That includes diet, the microbiome, gut health etc., to find patterns that could impact skin. Cosmetic companies could then use data that shows, for example, sleep deprivation causes skin to become duller or more
yellow to develop new products like boosters, sleep relief creams or products to give an instant skin glow. It’s a separate conversation about whether consumers will buy them, but I think that is how brands are positioning.
TP: What might be in Mintel’s 2025 Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends report? KSC: I’m sure you’re aware of ChatGPT, well, Mintel has an equivalent called Mintel Leap. I asked it what is next in terms of cosmetic trends, and an interesting area is the challenge of aesthetic treatments. A few years ago, treatments
like HIFU (high-intensity focused ultrasound) facials or laser radiofrequency skin tightening were not so widespread. Nowadays it’s more like open
conversation, those treatments are normalised. I myself have friends who fly to Bangkok on a Friday, do the treatment, come back to Singapore on a Sunday and go back to work the next day. It’s become so such popular
that you start to wonder what the impact might be on skincare, and
the value of skincare. Skincare has traditionally been a slow process that gives you long-term benefit.
With treatments, you get a
quick fix, you get the instant gratification, you’re able to see the results. Skincare products are then about the maintenance effect. So people with treatments don’t expect much from skincare. For skincare companies,
there is a challenge to convince those consumers about the value of skincare. We are seeing some use aesthetic clinic type ingredients to boost that efficacy conversation. It’s interesting to see how this space will evolve in terms of how big that group of people who use aesthetic treatments gets.
TP: So some skincare products could be sold as a sort of maintenance product for aesthetic treatments? KSC: Yes, because those aesthetic treatments already give you the immediate effect. You are able to see the remarkable improvement of brightness or elasticity immediately. So the challenge is how can skincare step up to the game? Another factor is the lack of
research on the long-term effects of aesthetic treatments. How does it affect your extracellular matrix? Maybe some industry communication on this would be helpful for consumers to choose between aesthetic treatments and skincare.
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