62 ANTI-POLLUTION CONTROL CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA POSITIVE CONTROL
Figure 1: Immunodetection of GABA A receptor on Caucasian skin (57 years old) after treatment with Chamomilla recutita or positive control (synthetic GABA 10 mM). Objective x20
separated based on their molecular and physical properties, allowing an exceptional final composition: 95 times more flower acids than classic extracts, 40 times more vitamin B5, and seven times more GABA and polyphenolic compounds. This clean and reproducible approach harnesses the power of nature while eliminating the use of harmful solvents, reducing water consumption aligning with the industry’s commitment to environmentally friendly and sustainable practices.
AI prediction and in vitro validation Chamomile flower and leaf extract, obtained by Zeta Fraction technology, is an innovative extract of Chamomilla recutita, rich in various bioactive phytocompounds, that are not found in conventional extracts or at lower concentration. In particular, the CE contains GABA amino acid, flower acids (organic acids, mainly malic and quinic acids), phenolic compounds (mainly ferulic acid derivatives and apigenin flavonoid and its derivatives) and B vitamins (mainly B5). These molecules are well-known to have biological activities.
CONTROL A
Thanks to the extract composition, digital
applications using various specific databases allowed to predict the plausible potential of the phytochemical compounds present in the CE. Several digital tools were used to predict biological activities of this biofunctional, based on its content in the following phytochemical compounds of biological interest: ferulic acid, chlorogenic acid, malic acid, proline, GABA and vitamin B5. The predictions obtained with the
SwissTargetPrediction tool allowed to evidence the potential effect of GABA and proline, phytochemicals present in the extract, on GABA receptors signaling pathway. The plausible biological effects highlighted through the identification of gene ontology (GO) associated terms were the response to oxidative stress, the response to UVA irradiation, the regulation of lipid metabolism, the modulation of porphyrin activity related to a possible anti-microbial effect and on GABA signaling pathway. To confirm these predictions, in vitro and
in vivo studies were performed with the CE on cells, ex vivo skin and clinically on two different ethnic groups (Caucasian and Asian).
PM10 Chemical analyses showed the CE contained
significant amount of GABA. GABA is an important neurotransmitter which can act directly on skin. Indeed, it influences the cutaneous barrier recovery, inhibits the melanogenesis (act to α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone), and increases the expression of type I collagen and elastin synthesis in normal human dermal fibroblasts.6,7,8 To evidence the interaction with the skin and more precisely with the epidermis, Immunodetection of GABA A receptor was performed on biopsies to detect the expression of this receptor after the application of the CE. A significant increase of the green-
fluorescent intensity (+14%** with CE) located at the upper layers of the epidermis, thus of GABA A receptor, was associated with 48h-application of CE, in ex vivo skin biopsies (Figure 1). Oily skin is another imperfection caused by an
overexpression of lipids produced by sebocytes. Several factors (exposome) can influence the homeostasis of the skin. These exposome factors can be external (solar radiation, pollution) or internal exposure (unhealthy diet (glucidic) or psychosocial stress).
PM10 CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA
CONTROL B
GLUCOSE
GLUCOSE CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA
Figure 2: Detection of total neutral lipids by Nile red staining on human primary African sebocytes. Sebocytes were stressed by pollution PM 10 (A) or glucose (B) and treated or not by Chamomilla recutita. Objective x20
PERSONAL CARE March 2024
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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