MARINE INGREDIENTS A 100 80 * 60 56.2%±2.3% * 70.7%±1.2%
69
40
20 B 0 C+ C- Ingredient 1% Marine Ingredient 2%
Figure 4: Antioxidant capacity expressed as ABTS scavenging activity of the marine ingredient at 1% and 2%. Preliminary results. p>0.05; one-way ANOVA
found in the ingredient, and their mechanism of action (Figure 1). ■ 1. Marine saccharides molecules form hydrogen bonding with water, and retain it, increasing the cell size, which leads to cell turgor increase. Polysaccharides acts as a film, by protecting the skin layers, preventing the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). So, marine saccharides found in the marine ingredient can act as a solution producing a plumping effect on lateral canthal lines and drooping eyelids. ■ 2. Polyphenol system is integrated by two main phenolic compounds: 4-hydroxybenzaldehyde (4-HB) and marine gallic acid (MGA). They accomplish three main functions: antioxidant (scavenging ROS),15,16 whitening, and skin integrity maintenance. 4-HB, found in our ingredient, act as a whitening agent by inhibiting angiogenesis,15 that is the formation of new blood vessels and causes skin problems such as dark circles, as explained in the introductory part of the article. Moreover, MGA modulates MMP-1 production and increases elastin and procollagen type I, protecting the dermal matrix.16 ■ 3. Marine protein complex: several proteins
Day 0 Phase
have been found in the marine ingredient (Figure 2). One remarkable molecule has been identified in this group: thioredoxin. Thioredoxin is an enzyme that is able to reduce oxidized proteins, by acting as antioxidant.17
Marine
FSA-1 domain protein has been
also detected in the marine ingredient. This protein is able to inhibit the angiogenesis process, reducing dark circles and eye bags.
In vitro collagen type I production This marine ingredient was assessed in an immunofluorescence test to analyses the collagen type I production at different concentrations. Preliminary results showed that 0.3% of the marine ingredient caused a significant increase of collagen type I, as can be observed in Figure 3. As fluorescence increases, collagen production increases.
In vitro elastin production The marine ingredient was also tested in terms of elastin production. Preliminary results offered an outstanding increase in elastin of 72.2%±10% at only 0.3% concentration. These results dilucidated the well-
Ingredients Water
Butylene Glycol Glycerin
A
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate Visconat U®
Caprylyl glycol Day 28 B
Isostearyl Isostearate Shea butter
Argan kernel Oil C
Figure 5: In vivo study of the marine ingredient at 3%. Visual effect on eye bags wrinkles reduction after 28 days. Images processed with Image J software
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Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Glyceryl Stearate Marine Ingredient Hydrolyzed collagen
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Agar, Sclerotium Gum Caprylyl glycol
Isostearyl Isostearate
Butyrospermum parkii butter Argania spinosa kernel oil Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Glyceryl Stearate
Aqua, Populus tremuloides bark extract, Plankton extract Hydrolyzed collagen
Figure 3: Visual increase of Collagen type I production. A: 0% marine ingredient; B: 0.3% marine ingredient
ageing potential of the marine ingredient, by preserving the main structures of the dermal matrix (collagen and elastin).
In vitro antioxidant capacity Preliminary results of the ABTS assay19 showed that the marine ingredient offered an antioxidant capacity of 56.2%±2.3% at 1% and an impressive antioxidant power of 70.7%±1.2% at 2% (Figure 4).
In vivo double-bind clinical study The cosmetic efficacy of the marine ingredient was assessed in a double-blind in vivo study with 36 volunteers (31-63 years old) for 28 days.
INCI Aqua
Butylene Glycol Glycerin
Contents (%) q.s.
3.00 2.00 0.80 0.60 0.20 5.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 1.00
Table 2: Example of formulation of an eye contour with the marine ingredient. Procedure: Combine phase A and homogenize using a homogenizer. Heat phase B until all components are completely melted. Add phase B to A and emulsify using homogenizer until a homogeneous mixture. Add ingredients of phase C below 40°C one by one into phase A+B. Adjust pH to 5-6
March 2024 PERSONAL CARE
ABTS scavenging activity (%)
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