NATURALS
disappear if the skin is not subjected to this stress on a daily basis, but if the stress remains, as can be the case during a pandemic with sanitary measures to uphold, they can be at least reduced by using soothing and repairing topical ingredients.
Betulin: High efficacy in skin regeneration Betulin is a triterpene extracted from the bark of white birch (Betula papyrifera). It has been confirmed as a multifunctional active ingredient because it addresses several claims at once. An ex vivo test on wound healing from human skin explants was performed and the activity was evaluated by an assessment of the general morphology of the normal and affected areas. Betulin was dispersed at 2% in hydroalcoholic carboxymethyl cellulose (H-CMC gel) and applications were done once daily on days 0, 1, 4, 6, and 8. After only four days, the active ingredient
showed better restructuring and regeneration activity compared to a neutral cream. There was an increase of 20% of neoepidermis meaning an improvement in the thickness of the epidermal growth bud and a visibly higher number of cellular layers compared to skin treated with a placebo (Figure 1). After nine days, it showed a reduction of tissue damage by improving dermo-epidermal adhesion. There was an enhancement of 40% of the adherent zone, meaning that it helps to reduce visible scarring. This high performance in skin regeneration
after external aggression makes it possible to offer this active as a good option to help weakened skin, since it helps to restore the skin barrier functions fast and correctly.
Relief of skin irritation and reduction of redness Reactive skin tends to respond in the same way as sensitive skin, but more dramatically, to stimuli and allergens (frequent washings,
95
■31-55 years old ■Dry, atopic, and sensitive skin ■Double blind randomised study
After 7 days
Relieved skin PLACEBO
55% 2% NIXALIN™ After 28 days Less redness on face 60% Figure 2: Betulin reduces irritation and redness on the skin
fragrances, preservatives, and others). Unlike with merely sensitive skin, reactive skin triggers a full-blown immune response with the body releasing antibodies to attack the offending substance. This results in visible reddening of the
skin. These reactions often take some time to subside, leaving the skin weakened and prone to damage as the epidermal barrier struggles to rebuild itself. These conditions can affect any body
part, although the face is the most commonly affected area. Published data on the prevalence of sensitive skin varies between 50% and 70%, with substantial geographic, racial/ethnic, gender, and age variations.5 However, the underlying mechanism
of reactive skin prevalence is not well understood. Impaired barrier function, inflammation, and activation of peripheral innervation have all been suggested as reasons.6 Many skin disorders have been
demonstrated to have a high impact on quality of life and, more recently, to in fact be a heavy burden when hands need to be washed frequently with hydro-alcoholic gel. Fortunately, management of weakened skin remains unchanged: cautious use of well- tolerated and soothing active ingredients will help to reduce the impact of those repeated aggressions. A first in vivo study was performed to
evaluate the compatibility of betulin with sensitive and weakened skin. It was performed under the supervision of a dermatologist, by repetitive applications of the formulated ingredient to the skin of 50 healthy volunteers over 30 days.
Based on the obtained results, the active
is considered a non-irritating ingredient suitable for sensitive and weakened skin. A second clinical study was performed to determine the efficacy on irritation relief and redness reduction of a betulin formula versus a placebo formula. These in vivo results confirm the advantage
of using it to quickly improve the comfort of irritated skin. After seven days using the betulin formula, skin irritation was significantly relieved, with improvement of the condition reaching 73% (Figure 2). Furthermore, the severity of redness on the skin was quickly reduced and improvement was clearly visible (Figure 3). A daily use of such a formulation was also
Figure 3: Visible improvement of skin redness after treatment with betulin Use of image-Pro®, cross polarised lighting mode image
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shown to help reduce skin redness on the long term. After 28 days, a significant majority of participants observed a relief of redness in the
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE 80% 95%
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