COVER STORY: ASHLAND ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE
7
Making formulations more natural with Natrathix
Manufacturers of skin care products have long struggled to replace traditional synthetic ingredients. Synthetic rheology modifiers such as carbomer have traditionally been used to thicken and stabilize skin care emulsions efficiently with appealing aesthetics, while natural rheology modifiers typically have poor aesthetics, making it difficult to create the natural, sustainable formulations consumers want. Natrathix™ Bio offers a solution to skin care
manufacturers, enabling them to improve the naturality and sustainability of their formulations while creating a variety of appealing textures and meeting their corporate sustainability goals. Natrathix Bio cellulose is a nature-derived, readily biodegradable, non-GMO, COSMOS- validated thickener with suspension capabilities that maintains emulsion stability of skin and sun care formulations, offering an alternative to nonbiodegradable carbomer. Developed through market leading expertise in sustainably sourced cellulosics and rheology, Natrathix Bio enables the creation of more natural skin care creams, lotions and clear gels, including organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations, with the texture, skin feel and sustainability that consumers demand. Vegan-suitable, globally compliant Natrathix Bio is a versatile thickener that is electrolyte and minerals tolerant, effective across a wide pH range, cold processible and does not require neutralization.
Effective thickening Natrathix Bio has been shown to be capable of creating a comparable viscosity level to carbomer. Compared to xanthan gum, Natrathix Bio was shown to deliver much higher viscosity (Figure 1). Furthermore, Natrathix Bio cellulose delivers much higher viscosity compared to traditional commercial cellulose gum.
Reliable suspension capability Beyond effective thickening, Natrathix Bio cellulose is different than traditional cellulose
natrathix™ bio viscosity level is comparable to carbomer
90,000 67,500 45,000 22,500 0
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS ● FORMULATION ●
MANUFACTURE GLOBAL
16000 14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0
0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 % of CaCI2
Figure 3: Viscosity increases when electrolytes are added to a gel with 1% Natrathix Bio
Restoring skin with a novel Ca2+
delivery system
Interview: BASF Personal Care Europe head Tatiana Kalman
In focus: Natural ingredients, Sun care, in-cosmetics Asia
gum due to its suspension capability. Natrathix Bio at 1.5% concentration was found to suspend beads in a gel after three months at 45°C, while a traditional cellulose gum used at 1.5% failed after only 24 hours (Figure 2).
Outstanding sustainability Natrathix Bio cellulose has been classified as readily biodegradable with natural content greater than 84% (based on ISO 16128-2:2017), this COSMOS-validated, non-GMO and vegan suitable polymer has an excellent sustainability profile.
Excellent electrolyte and mineral tolerance When electrolytes are introduced to a gel
1.5% natrathix™ bio
1.5% traditional cellulose gum*
containing carbomer, the viscosity typically drops quickly and suspension capability is lost. Conversely, the effect of electrolytes was found to increase the viscosity of a gel containing Natrathix Bio and improve the stability. The electrolyte tolerance of Natrathix Bio is important when formulating with certain actives and preservatives that introduce electrolytes (Figure 3).
Formulation inspiration A variety of concept formulations containing Natrathix have been developed in order to provide examples of how it can be used in serums, face masks, creams and lotions with many different textures, tinted moisturisers, and sun care products as well as how it can be used to suspend pigments, encapsulates and glitter.
Conclusion Nature-derived, readily biodegradable, Natrathix Bio is a COSMOS-validated, vegan-suitable, non-GMO rheology modifier with a clean, simple INCI that will not befuddle or frighten consumers. Natrathix Bio offers a solution to skin and sun care manufacturers, enabling them to improve the naturality and sustainability of their formulations while creating a variety of appealing textures. In addition to addressing consumer needs
with more natural, sustainable products, manufacturers will also be better able to meet their own corporate sustainability goals in today’s skin care market. Discover formulations and learn more by visiting
www.ashland.com/ natrathix.
1 1.2 1.4 1.6
PC
natrathix™ bio
1.5%
carbomer 980
0.5%
xanthan gum
Figure 1: Natrathix™ Bio builds viscosity effectively
www.personalcaremagazine.com
1.5%
After 3 months at 45°C
After 24 hours at 45°C
Figure 2: Natrathix Bio suspension capability compared to traditional cellulose gum
Ashland 500 Hercules Road, Wilmington, DE 19808, USA
www.ashland.com
October 2022 PERSONAL CARE
Viscosity (cps)
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