46 NATURALS S.epidermidis ■
S.aureus ■
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
49% 91% 92% 100% 51% 9%
Growth medium control
0.001% Vitamin B12
8%
0.01% Vitamin B12
Vitamin B12
0.1% Vitamin added into the medium culture, then inoculated by 109
100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0
S.hominis ■
S.aureus ■
44%
50% 67% 100%
56%
50% 33%
Growth medium control
0.001% Vitamin B12
0.01% Vitamin B12
micro organisms. After 48h of incubation at 37°C, microbes have been counted
Figure 6: Proportions of S. aureus and S. epidermidis (left), and S. aureus and S. hominis (right) in the medium culture after the addition of vitamin B12 at concentrations of 0.001%, 0.01% and 0.1%
was then inoculated with 109 microorganisms before incubating at 37°C for 48 hours. After this time, we counted the proportion of S. aureus microbes in relation to two commensal bacteria: S. epidermidis (which acts as a sentinel of skin microbiota, helping to limit inflammation), and S. hominis (which has a potent activity against pathogenic bacteria). Figure 6 show how proportions of S. aureus
and either S. epidermidis (left), and S. hominis (right) in the medium culture changed in response to the addition of vitamin B12. In both cases, S. aureus was drastically
reduced with lower concentrations of vitamin B12 and completely inhibited at a concentration of 0.1%, while S. epidermidis remained at the same level and S. hominis was slightly modulated at all vitamin B12 concentrations. By preventing over colonization of
S.aureus and promoting the share of beneficial bacteria,
vitamin B12 could therefore play a role in maintaining a healthy skin microbiome, thus protecting against symptoms of skin sensitivity.
Vitamin B12 – a perfect fit for natural formulations targeting skin sensitivity and inflamed skin Consumer demand for naturally derived and sustainably produced cosmetic ingredients continues to grow. As our vitamin B12 is lab grown and uses a biotech process involving non- GMO bacterial fermentation, it meets this need. It is also suitable for a variety of applications
and formats, easy to use, sparingly soluble and can be incorporated into the aqueous phase at any time. As well as targeting sensitive skin symptoms, it will also give formulations a pink hue which many consumers are likely to find appealing. As Figure 7 shows, the shades of this hue will
vary according to concentration and whether the carrier solution is water based or emulsion. Our recommended use level is from 0.001% to 0.1%.
Conclusion As our in vitro and ex vivo studies on human skin show, DSM’s naturally-derived vitamin B12 demonstrates potential to modulate inflammasome production, reduce mast cell degranulation to inhibit histamine release, and reduce proportions of pathogenic bacteria in the skin microbiome. In this way, it could help deliver the following skin care benefits: ■ Relief for sensitive and stressed skin ■ Relief for itchy, irritated, inflamed, red and cracked skin ■ Protection against skin barrier damage induced by inflammation This could make it an invaluable ingredient
in formulations designed to soothe the skin and promote a vibrant looking complexion.
References 1. Nistico SP et al. Superiority of a vitamin B12-barrier cream compared with standard glycerol-petrolatum-based emollient cream in the treatment of atopic dermatitis: A randomized, left-to-right comparative trial. Dermatologic Therapy. 2017; 30: e12523
2. Stücker et al. Topical vitamin B12—a new therapeutic approach in atopic dermatitis— evaluation of efficacy and tolerability in a randomized placebo-controlled multicentre clinical trial. Brit. J. Dermatol. 2004; 150: 977-983
3. Brescoll J. A review of vitamin B12 in dermatology. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 2015; 16 (1) 27–33)
4. Yamashiki M, Nishimura A, Kosaka Y. Effects of methyl-B12 on in vitro cytokine production of peripheral blood mononuclear cells. J. Clin. Lab. Immunol. 1992; 37: 173–82
Figure 7: Shades of pink hue with different concentrations of vitamin B12 PERSONAL CARE October 2022
5. Bauernfeind F et al. NLRP3 inflammasome activity is negatively controlled by miR-223, The Journal of Immunology. 2012; 189: 4175:4181
PC
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Vitamin B12
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